Hello people! Does anybody know how I can make the clutch disengage faster or give me more slip during down shifting? I have a CNC Racing MasterRace slipper, that doesn't seem to slip at all! I tried to contact CNC Racing, but they just tried to sell me newer version of their clutch and were less than helpful when it came to adjustments. Is there anything I can do to make it disengage faster? Stack height, different springs? Or alternatively is there something that can be done with the ECU to make engine braking less severe? I look at all the 600cc track bikes enviously at the track since the riders are able to bang in lower gears early in the braking zone with no drama at all. My 1098s locks up the rear even while down shifting at low speeds and low revs at the end of the braking zone. It's quite annoying at the track since I don't have the confidence/experience to lean into the corner with the rear sliding, so I have to wait unnecessarily long for the rear wheel speed to pick up at the end of the braking zone before committing to the corner. I know about rev matching, but I find that it upsets the balance a lot since it causes me to be jerky with the front brake. Practice makes better and all that, but I thought a slipper clutch was supposed to save me some of the hassle and mitigate the issues from the extreme engine braking that the large twin has? I do blip the throttle on the street during down shifts, but I find it rather more difficult at the track while stomping on the brakes at 120mph. I’d love it if the slipper would take some of the effort away from me as it is supposed to. This is how my clutch looks like, it was installed by the previous owner.
I'm unfamiliar with the CNC Racing slipper but feel from your description that the installation is very wrong if you are not getting any slip at all. If at all possible it would help if you could post some photos of the slipper mechanism. Andy
Practise your throttle blipping more! I dont know about others on this forum, but I have always viewed a slipper clutch on a big twin as an additional measure to go with proper throttle blipping, not a replacement for it. Assuming your clutch is assembled properly, you need to check a few things. Is the basket badly worn? Notches in the basket can stop the plate stack from rising and causing slippage. The stack height is the other thing to check.
It definitely feels like it's not working as it is supposed to, but I don't have any reference points since I haven't had a slipper before. I'll see if I can pop it open in the next few weeks and take some pictures. From what I gathered by googling, it does not seem to be as popular as some other brands and I couldn't find any relevant info on it. I agree, I'd love to be so smooth that I didn't have to rely on the slipper at all. But since it's on the bike, I'd like it to work as advertised.
So here is a diagram which looks totally alien to me. The clutch mechanics do not use a spider spring or ball and ramp to provide the slip which is far outside my experience so I am unable to offer any advice. I have been unable to find any set up instructions but I infer from one piece of infirmation that your clutch may be in a locked position which is engaged to use an external starter. Hope you find a solution. Andy
In this picture, there are 4 clutch springs and then a silver peg. If the silver peg is still in place on your clutch then that's the issue. That is a locking pin to allow the use of a starting dolly. The parts diagram above, provided by Andy is for a 6 spring "road" clutch. If you have 6 springs then I can't help straight away. It's quite a unique design that I've not seen before... More info, pics of your clutch would be good.
Yeah, I have the 4 spring version, which I guess is a discontinued product. I've never seen the silver peg and I've wondered what was its purpose since all the manufacturer's photos included it. But no, my clutch doesn't have it installed anymore. Do you reckon the 4 spring version has similar internals? The 6-spring MasterTech has "interchangeable cams" according to CNC Racing's webpage, but I sure don't have any extra cams laying around.
Latest CNC Racing catalog only shows the six peg clutches, as do the catalogs for the previous two years. Those 'cams' on the diagram look like classic 'ramps' to me. It is a clever design if the cams can be changed, since the ramp angle affects how much back torque is required before the clutch starts to slip. I think you will have to strip it and have a look so that you can verify that every thing is correctly placed. Other makes of slipper can jam if the plates are inserted in the wrong order (back torque causes the drum to rise up the ramps and the first plate slips off the bottom of the drum).
