Hi Can anyone tell me what the voltage is on the heated grips @ the contacts on the grips if you peel back the grips to expose the contacts? Mine have failed but if i test them i can't get any voltage readings. I've removed the fuel tank & checked continuity of wires from plugs to grips all ok..look like L/H grip my have failed as there's no continuity on this side whilst testing with plug disconnected. Don't seam to have any voltage on the plug from main loom either(yes they have been activated) Any help would be great as i'm thinking of replacing the stock grips with a set of oxford's but want to use the Ducati controller off the starter button to work them if i can sort out voltage & power issue. Thanks guys
I've never measured the voltage but the resistance of the grips on my MTS is 7.5Ω but they are 10.5Ω on my Scrambler. I'd expect the voltage to be more or less the battery voltage with the bike running, approx 14V. Reading on a US forum it's suggested that if one grip fails the dash shuts down the supply to both grips.
Thanks Derek Thats a great help & would possibly explain the lack of power to the grips. Going to have a play with them today, looking to put a set of oxford grips on instead if the Ducati which seem to have a poor track record but want to use the bikes built in control via starter to control them if possible. I'll take a look on the US forum's see what other info i can find & post back how i get on. Mark
Quite bit in here. And at least a few people have replaced the Ducati grips with aftermarket grips or heating pads.
I'm not sure that they are, but if so you should still be able to measure a voltage across the contacts of the open circuit grip but not the one which is ok since both ends would be at the same potential.
Had a look today. Turns out the L/H grip Was shot..small break in element near to the terminal where the wires join. Found by bridging a piece of copper wire across the break the grips worked. So it does look like they may be wired in series or at least if 1 fails it cuts the power to them. Any way next i'm going to look at replacing them with after market grips & if possible using the Ducati controller to work them. Thanks for all the feed back guys
Hi guys just a quick update on my heated grip saga! Well today i put bike back together. I then took a look at fixing the blown grip. Took a piece of copper wire & soldered it across the damaged area...hey presto grips work great again. Refitted the rubber sleave by spraying a little Wd40 to the inside of the rubber grip before pushing it back over the heating element. It went back on no problems..checked grips again once all fitted & all ok. For those wondering the damage to the heating element was vert hard to see(sorry i didn't get a picture) & nothing more than what looked like a pin prick on the element. Well up to now £200 saved so lets see how long they last!
Had a pin prick break in my immobiliser system on my old R1. That was a bugger to find so well done. I'll keep it in mind if mine die.
FYI - I had problems w/ my stock heated grips. I took it to the shop since it was under warrantee, and the lead mechanic told me that they grips are indeed wired in series, so if one goes, the other goes too.
Not standard on the latest PP model according to the Ducati web site and I'm pretty sure not a standard fitment on the previous incarnations. Andy
I didn't think so, as it's part of the tour package or you could spec it as an accessory add on I guess
I replaced with the stock elements with these - 12V Universal Motorcycle Motorbike Handlebar Warm Heated wrap Grip Kit Pads tape | eBay Bit of fiddly soldering - join the wires and heat shrink close to the element , but don't try to solder onto the replacement element Have nothing to compare to - but they seem warm enough on the recent cold mornings on highest setting I used 2 x Throttle side Pro-Grip grips - you can get the standard left grip on , but it's a stretch and adds to the circumference - so I bought another set to balance it out
One of mine has gone too so it looks like I'll be doing something similar to you! Did you have to cut the old grips off to get at the element or is there a way of getting them off without damaging them? Brute force? WD40? Thanks
Brute force and washing up liquid soap, it's much easier to clean off afterwards. Twist it baby (Chinese burn style).... Just remember that worst hand job ever, copy that technique and it will be off in no time.....
Hmm. So, taking your advice AirCon, I cast my mind back to the myriad of handjobs, good and bad, that I've been fortunate to receive over the years, seeking to recall the worst. Finally I settled on the manual ministrations of my most recent ex, who had many fine qualities (including a penchant for wearing high heels and skimpy black underwear in the bedroom) however, tenderness between the sheets wasn't one of them. Replicating her approach (including foregoing any form of lubrication) I yanked and twisted, peeled, swore and yanked some more, and, as you said, finally it came off. Much like my old chap. Indeed, the cause of the failure seems to be a pinhole break in the element. Now I'm going to retire with a stiff whisky and contemplate my next move. Which may be counselling. Cheers!
A bit different but my heated grips could not come up on a cold day. The l dictator on the dash was rotating from off to high and back but in White not color and that with the engine running. Came back on after about 20 min of engine running and after switch on and off. So are the electronics smart enough to disable them till high enough voltage is available or it’s just a bad connection
