I just checked my new chain by trying to pull a link away from the rear sprocket. It was solid and didn't move a fraction of an millimeter. It's a very good way to check the health of your chain - any looseness there means it is worn and you need to take heed.
If I were talking about chains a few years ago I would agree. With the Advent of higher quality x and o ring chains the adjustments are fewer and the chains last longer. Your statement that I don't get much life is totally bogus. I regularly get over 20k miles out of chains. I do lube and clean often but of course I am not as anal as you with chain maintainence. You are in no position to assess my riding style or tell me my 17k current chain is loose.
Firstly, for clarification, Multistrada's don't come equipped with X ring chains. They're Regina chains and they don't make X ring chains for motorcycles, as far as I know (by looking at their product catalogue). They're the poor cousin to a DID chain and since they're an OEM part they're undoubtedly built to a price, although the Regina catalogue indicates that the 136ZRPB2 product is one of it's better items. I don't know of anyone that would choose a Regina O-ring chain over a DID X-ring, which should say something for the OE fitment part. I don't think the OE 'strada chain is bad, but it's certainly not one that you'd choose. Look, you're in the US and the bulk of users on this forum are in the UK and I don't know what type of annual mileage you do. That said, I'm pretty sure your avg annual temps are a bit higher and I doubt very much that you have anything like the traffic we have in central London, which contributes massively to amount of salt and crap on our roads. Any motorcycle used in the London throughout the winter months absolutely requires a totally anal level of attention and maintenance or it won't be worth crap after one month. On that basis, there just isn't a snowballs chance in hell that you'll get away without need to adjust a chain in 4500 miles due to the significant wear and tear that this particular environment yields. YMMV. I can only go by the likelihood when used in the conditions and the environment that I ride in.
When you said “it needs minor adjustment every 1200 miles”, how do you perform these minor adjustments? I am asking because, the last bike I had with chain was a F800GS, which I sold in 2011 to get a R1200RT. Next week, when I will be back from Malaysia, I will take a new to me 2016 1200S and I am really worry about how the adjust the chain. I think I will be able to check the status of the chain with the info provided so far but, what I have to do if I find the chain needs adjustments? Thanks in advance!
Don't be freaked out by the need to adjust the chain. It's normal for 95% of motorcycles. Checking whether the chain needs adjustment is very easy and on most bikes requires no tools, that said you do need a gauge on the Multistrada to get an accurate measurement which is in your toolkit. Once you're familiar with what the amount of movement in the chain feels like then you can do away with it. Firstly, make sure your Multi is on the side-stand. Don't put it on the centre stand as the action of the rear suspension is a critical aspect of correctly adjusting the chain. Second, with the bike on the side stand set the riding mode to "Urban", assuming you've not made any changes to the suspension parameters in that mode and they are factory default settings. Third, under the swingarm locate the rubber strip which protects the swingarm from contact with the chain, and somewhere in the middle of it there is a half-circle which protrudes along it's side. This is the point where you will measure the chain using the gauge which is in your tool kit. The owners manual shows exactly how and where to place the gauge but you're looking for the notch in the gauge to line-up with the pins in the chain. Fourth, to actually measure the chain wheel the bike forwards or backwards a little and press down on the lower section of the chain. You need to try and identify the tighter and looser sections of the chain and you need to adjust the chain at it's tightest point. Once you've identified the tightest point of the chain measure it with the gauge and assess whether it needs adjustment or not. Actual adjustment is a little more involved when compared to other bikes, but simpler in other respects, but make sure you have a reliable torque wrench before you even start. First, remove the rear crud catcher, if you've still got it attached. Second, loosen the two pinch bolts which secure the rotating hub. Third, using the large C spanner in your toolkit locate it on the notched C-ring on the hub between the wheel and the swingarm and (if memory serves me correctly) if you have the spanner at the 3 o'clock position you lift up to rotate it anti-clockwise to tighten the chain, vice versa to loosen it (or the other way around if I'm wrong lol). A little tip - there is an extension handle in the toolkit that goes onto the C spanner, make sure you use it. Also, there is a large hex key which fits into the extension, stick that in there too. The longer you make the handle on the C spanner, the more leverage you have which makes it easier to turn and also with a greater degree of finesse to make minor adjustments. I would recommend obtaining a better C-spanner with a longer handle if possible, as it does make it considerably easier. Fourth, tighten up the pinch bolts, making sure you torque them down to 35nm (I'm going from memory, can someone verify?). These are a safety critical point and adjustment should be within +/- 5%. It's good practice to thoroughly lube your chain first, then go ride for a couple of miles before adjusting it. You'll get a better feel for tight and loose spots in the chain.
I personally found chain adjustment easier on the multi (once I’d purchased a better C spanner). No faffing about with left/right swing arm alignment. One simple adjustment and job done.
Absolutely. Even on bikes which have marks on the swingarm for alignment, you can't trust them and the only way to be certain is to just eyeball it or put it on an alignment machine. If you go for an MOT the tester won't take any notice of those marks and they will generally look along the rear wheel to the front wheel if they don't have a machine. None of that malarkey on a Multistrada equipped with a single sided swingarm.
Just don't over tighten the chain, that can cause more problems than a slack chain, it needs to have some movement.
Wise words. In extreme cases the chain can snap or I've also seen where it can damage the output shaft and then cause wear the seal on the output shaft, causing an oil leak.
What would make it even easier would be a quick release bolt or two on the rear sprocket so it could spin and you could find the tight spot without all that ‘wheel it forward, check, wheel it forward’ nonsense.
The bike has to be on it's wheels to take up the correct amount of suspension travel, which is why the owners manual is quite specific about adjusting it whilst in Urban mode with factory default suspension settings.
Or just smash the engine to pieces as the chain is pulled on to and not off the front sprocket, with over 150bhp.
That’s why a locking bolt removal system would be ace. You could then move the chain round whilst it’s stationary in that mode. Adjust chain and then reinsert the locking bolt.
Yes, I've seen posts on here about. I know the hole you're talking about because I've also drained a swingarm full of water when I installed a carbon swingarm cover. Never had an issue myself with the eccentric hub mechanism seizing though.
Sorry mate, I think I'm missing something. Are you describing a system of releasing the sprocket from it's carrier and physically decoupling it from the rear wheel?
Just enough for it to spin without the rear wheel spinning. I know you could by undoing all the sprocket carrier bolts, but a properly designed one. That you could do with ease.
