I took my 900ss in for some work recently and unfortunately the workshop managed to put a series of small dents in my near side silencer, ref photo, (ignore the scratch that was already there) there was more damage to the silencer but not in as prominent a position, now every time I look at the bike now they are all I see!, they are laser cans made in 2005 so I doubt a new replacement would be available , the 2nd photo is the offside can just to show how good they were prior to being damaged, does anyone know of a way of repairing this?, I guess the dents need dressing out from the inside and the tube re-anodising, so that probably makes it out of the question financially (along with the other can would need to be done so they matched), I doubt there is anything to be done really, I’ll probably have to shell out for a new set but I thought I’d ask.
Well it’s a bit of an awkward one, in the past they have been very good, including selling me NOS parts very cheaply, example NOS still in the box front fairing/headlamp subframe, Ducati price £450 they sold to me for £50, I didn’t notice the damage when I picked it up, but I know it was caused by them because I always take a close up video of my vehicles before taking them in, a couple of days after getting the bike home, (ridden straight from them and into my garage) I saw the damage, I knew full well the dents weren’t there before they worked on the bike and checking my video confirmed this. So given that they have been good in the past I haven’t complained, I also haven’t been back!.
Yes, I probably should really, good service in the past or not it’s not on damaging somebody’s bike and saying nothing, there were lots of other issues with the work they did this time, I’ve copied in the list from my phone notes below, I mean sending a bike out with the front indicator not working is a safety issue, maybe they drafted in a temporary mechanic?, in the past their work has always been good Phone notes “Neutral light switch jammed & not working, black tie wraps on white frame, various looms not secured, carb union drain not attached to triangular box, silencer dented, carb to air box clamps missing, carb to intake clamp loose, solenoid loom resting on engine, bike covered in greasy handprints, left front indicator not connected, fairing screw bottomed out hence fairing loose, oil leak at lower oil cooler pipes to engine, oil cooler pipe routed very close to exhaust” I’ll have to decide how I approach them on this.
Start a dialogue with them - if you are not happy, they should listen and take action to resolve. Keep it calm but firm.
Change the damaged parts for carbon tubes like wot I did on my Laser zorsts - repack while you do it. Get the stuff from here: http://www.pjengineering.co.uk/
Thanks Al, I like that idea, and ask The offending workshop to pay for the carbon tubes, could be a good solution including the already light 900ss getting lighter .
If the Lazer cans are anything like mine were which were dated 2002 IIRC; then it isn't difficult to do (even with fixed link pipes like mine were). From what I can see in your photos, it looks as though yours are fixed to the hangers with two bolts each (M8, in fact). So, you take off the zorsts and drill out the end cap rivets each end.....that should allow you to pull the things apart, although the outlet end caps may be a bit tight on the central perforated pipes. Once you have the packing out I expect you will find a thick steel curved plate inside which has the two M8 threads in it; plus they are fixed to the cans with two rivets each - drill them out of course. The carbon tubes from PJ Eng are not lacquered, so there is a seam along the length of the tube - rotate the tubes so the seams are at about 45 degrees to the bike where they can't be seen. Stick a label on each can 'L' & 'R' and mark the ally ones the same. Carefully measure the ally can holes (rivets and bolts) and transfer them to the carbon tubes; so that seams come exactly where you want them to in relation to the mounting holes. Drill all your holes - be careful when drilling carbon fibre. Note: at this point it is worth mentioning that I made two curved 1.5mm thick stainless steel plates to go on the outside of the carbon tubes to reinforce the mounting point holes. I may still have two spare ones. See pic. Rivet the reinforcement plates right through the carbon tubes to the heavy steel plate inside. Fit your wrapping around the perforated pipes, and hold it in place with some low tack masking tape. Wrap some thick-ish plastic sheet over that, then slide the tubes over the plastic. Pull the plastic out when the tubes are in place. Rivet the carbon tubes to the inlet end caps - it's up to you whether you have PJ Eng end trims or not, but they can be a bit sharp; a b*****d to drill extra holes, because the pre-drilled holes may not line up. When all done, fit the outlet end caps and rivet them.
Thanks Al, great write up on the method as well, I’m about to call the workshop so we’ll see what is said. Edit-or maybe not, I’m at this rather pleasant watering hole on my Scrambler, plenty of WiFi but no phone signal, doh!, I’ll have to call them later. Library photo btw I’m not that far north!.
I am trying to think how I got the end cap rivet holes spot on - IIRC the Lazer ones are exactly in line with the ones at the other end, ie parallel to the tube. I think I first drilled where I wanted the two 8mm mounting holes on the carbon tube and used a straightedge so I could mark the position at each end as well. I then drew a line parallel through the mounting holes on the Lazer tubes from end to end; so I could mark the end caps with the same line, by lining them up with the original rivet holes. I then dropped the appropriate end cap into the carbon tube just enough to line up those marks but also to see the end cap rivet holes. I also think I wrapped masking tape around the carbon tube ends to make the marking easier plus to help with drilling and protection.
Thanks for the info Al, I will order some tube and get making a set up, you’ve taken the hard part out of the job, the thinking bit !. Now there has been a development, I rang the workshop owner earlier and he has apologised, as I said he has always been very good in the past, he is giving me a substantial refund on the work that was carried out (50%) and has “spoken” to the mechanic that carried out the work, so all in all it has worked out well, thanks Keith as well for encouraging me to contact the WS owner.
PS - another tip with the carbon fibre tubes. Don't push too hard when drilling, just make sure you use a small sharp drill to pilot the holes first. Don't squeeze the tubes - carbon fibre is very strong in certain ways, but it can also be very weak when subjected to point loads. Also, wear a mask when drilling or sanding.
Thanks Al, I bought some pipewerx carbon cans yesterday with the refund from the WS , I’m going to get some high level link pipes for those from BBB fabrications, I will then rework the laser cans with the carbon tubes as you suggest, that way I’ll have a set of high and low level silencers , just toying with the idea of an SL seat unit to go with the HL pipes, maybe not bother though unless an SL seat unit comes up at a reasonable price.
Glad youre getting sorted.End of the day the owner cant resolve a problem unless he knows about it.Also shit does happen and it says alot for someone by the way it is handled.10/10 for the owner,0/10 for the spanner monkey.
The Pipewerx Carbon cans arrived today, look quite nice, methinks they might be rather loud though, that baffle only extends an inch into the silencer!
Glad you sorted out the issues at the garage - the owner seems like a good bloke! Those new ones look great!
Just fitted the carbon cans, sounds glorious!, especially on the over run, very pleased with them, might just take a bit more off the link pipes to bring the cans forward a bit but wow what a sound!