Oberon King of the F'ing Fairies!

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Nelson, Jan 30, 2013.

  1. dont know if this helps any, found it when browsing something else, the shim bit at the bottom looked interesting maybe
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    [TD="colspan: 51"]If it doesn't work properly (i.e. no neutral finding at stops, no gear shifting at stops,
    hard shifting, etc.), then the most likely cause is still air in the system.
    Try bleeding again. If that doesn't work, here are some more suggestions:
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    [TD="colspan: 62"]Bleed it again. Yes, I am repeating myself because it takes a LOT of bleeding time for all air to exit.
    When I bled mine, I waited a week and bled it again, only to find an air bubble at the top and bottom. Same
    thing when I bled it two weeks later. Air bubbles will lodge in the lines and then surface later.
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    [TD="colspan: 76"]Or, maybe your clutch lever needs to be adjusted. There is a little screw on the side of the handle that actuates the
    piston inside. To adjust it, the slave cylinder needs to come off. Once it's off, remove the master cylinder reservoir
    cover. Using the reverse bleeding technique, push the piston in the slave cylinder and notice that fluid comes out.
    Now screw the screw clockwise about a 1/4 turn. Push on the piston again. If fluid still comes into the reservoir,
    screw the screw in again, and so on until you can't push the piston in with your fingers (i.e. no fluid can travel back
    into the reservoir with you pushing on the piston). Next, back it out 1/2 turn. Push on the piston again to make sure
    fluid travels back into the reservoir, and you're set. What happens if you screw the screw all the way in, but can still
    push fluid back in (and can't get neutral when stopped)? That's what happened to me, and some people suggested that
    I get an adjustable clutch lever from another model Ducati. I haven't done that yet, but I am sure it will work.
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    [TD="colspan: 31"]I have also heard of putting shims inside the
    slave cylinder piston to increase the travel of
    the rod, but am very hesitant about doing that.
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  2. um dont know if you can see that, it faint for some reason lol
     
  3. I think that's what you were trying to say Kev....


    [TABLE="class: cms_table, align: center"]
    [TR]
    [TD="colspan: 51"]If it doesn't work properly (i.e. no neutral finding at stops, no gear shifting at stops,
    hard shifting, etc.), then the most likely cause is still air in the system.
    Try bleeding again. If that doesn't work, here are some more suggestions:
    [/TD]
    [TD="colspan: 11"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 753, colspan: 80"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 35, colspan: 9"][/TD]
    [TD="colspan: 62"]Bleed it again. Yes, I am repeating myself because it takes a LOT of bleeding time for all air to exit.
    When I bled mine, I waited a week and bled it again, only to find an air bubble at the top and bottom. Same
    thing when I bled it two weeks later. Air bubbles will lodge in the lines and then surface later.
    [/TD]
    [TD="width: 49, colspan: 9"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 753, colspan: 80"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 8, colspan: 3"][/TD]
    [TD="colspan: 76"]Or, maybe your clutch lever needs to be adjusted. There is a little screw on the side of the handle that actuates the
    piston inside. To adjust it, the slave cylinder needs to come off. Once it's off, remove the master cylinder reservoir
    cover. Using the reverse bleeding technique, push the piston in the slave cylinder and notice that fluid comes out.
    Now screw the screw clockwise about a 1/4 turn. Push on the piston again. If fluid still comes into the reservoir,
    screw the screw in again, and so on until you can't push the piston in with your fingers (i.e. no fluid can travel back
    into the reservoir with you pushing on the piston). Next, back it out 1/2 turn. Push on the piston again to make sure
    fluid travels back into the reservoir, and you're set. What happens if you screw the screw all the way in, but can still
    push fluid back in (and can't get neutral when stopped)? That's what happened to me, and some people suggested that
    I get an adjustable clutch lever from another model Ducati. I haven't done that yet, but I am sure it will work.
    [/TD]
    [TD="width: 14"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 753, colspan: 80"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="width: 229, colspan: 37"][/TD]
    [TD="colspan: 31"]I have also heard of putting shims inside the
    slave cylinder piston to increase the travel of
    the rod, but am very hesitant about doing that.
    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]
     
    • Like Like x 1
  4. you are a clever cookie, ta
     
  5. Cheers for that. I have heard some peps placing small ball bearings in the slave. That'll be my next step as I've tried everything else!
    Thanks chaps :)
     
  6. Just make sure if you do place a spacer in the rod section is to make sure the actuating rod has clearence when hot or your clutch will bind and lead to a lot of heat and wear!!!
     
  7. Nelson, bit of long shot ... have you pulled the shaft out and applied a little grease along its length (ahem), also the ends, bearing and slave end need a good lubing occasionally I've noticed. Hope that helps mate.
     
  8. I had similar problems, Nelly suggested altering the span adjuster. Worked a treat! :upyeah:
     
  9. Greyman has a point - I took the rod out and cleaned and re greased
     
  10. Yes - try bleeding the clutch on maximum span as you should get more "throw" in the lever.
     
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