I guess that the 1260 and 1200 DVT are the same in this respect. Tested the fit of the hub socket from the MV on the 1260 Mutley today. When purchased it stated on the packaging that it was compatible with both MV and Ducati. It appears not the Multistrada though... So looks like I need to purchase another one. Would prefer steel rather than alloy for longevity and, if necessary, use with a rattle gun. I accept that alloy ones are partially sacrificial in nature and thus less likely to mark the hub nut. However, the torque values involved are likely to be too much for them for more than a few uses and using them with a rattle gun is a no-no as the drive will round off. Looking at these options. Laser 6356 Wheel Impact Socket, 55/30 mm Ducati Multistrada 1200 1260 Front & Rear Wheel Nut TOOL by CTMOTO Does anyone have experience with these and care to comment? Or suggest a suitable alternative? I guess that the wheel side nut is a regular right-hand thread on Ducatis? Unlike MVs with the notched left-hand threaded wheel nut. Thanks in advance
Have always used an ordinary socket on raffle gun with no problems. The socket is so large think it would need 3\4 drive with large gun to bring any strength problems into the equation.
The Laser one is the one I have - used many times front and back, with a rattle gun and with a 1/2” 900mm breaker...plus me standing on it, which it took...the knuckle on the breaker didn’t. Great tool so far, defo worth the ££’s.
I use this one - essentially same as above - but cheaper - but its in USA.... I travel and had it delivered to a colleague. UK shipping is $10 - so bringing you to $50 - + whatever import duty you get screwed with... Normally Vat on Item and delivery - so $50 - they use £50 - so £10 + £15 handling fee.. So would bring you to around £60 ... if the package gets picked up and duty charged. https://www.motomfg.com/Steel_Ducati_1098_1198_SF_MTS1200_wheel_nut_socket_p/wh-4.htm This type of socket locates in the central hub so provides better guidance than the normal 55mm socket.
Thank for input all. Previous one for the MV was a SpeedyMoto one from the States, almost £80 once delivered including all taxes. Compared to the ones you could get here, all aluminium and prone to premature failure, you could have loaded it into a canon, fired it through a brick wall, picked it up and used it. Will still be perfect long after I've departed this earth, someone on the MV forum will probably get it for a song or I'll keep it as a memento. CTMoto one has been ordered, nice and shiny, Laser one looked fine but stainless probably more durable in the longer term. Will probably also order a lighter aluminium one to keep under the seat, touring around Europe it's best to have one on board. Will wait and see actually how heavy the CTMoto one is first.
My one is similar to the CT Moto one and carried it under my seat when touring with a breaker bar rollled into my kip mat. Just as well as I needed both to change a tyre out in Norway and the place didn’t have but to fit The bar worked a couple of times with me standing on it to crack it then the knuckle snapped. I now only tighten to 180 instead of 220 specified
Probably not a good idea it’s 230 I think anyway on DVT The issue is they self tighten or seize I think rather than how tight you have done it up As it’s safety critical I suggest you stay with recommended torque. But it’s you life...
I initially chose the 180 on the suggestion of a Ducati specialist and its been confirmed by a couple of others who also agreed its more than sufficient. One is a current Ducati tech who followed it up with "but i have to torque them to 220 in this workshop as thats what Ducati tells me to do, but if you tell me 180 then i will set it at that <wink wink>" I wouldnt have just tried it myself as a suck it and see....... but its been fine for the past 20,000 miles
I use a draper 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar at home, because of its strength. I carry a 1/2 drive one the same as the ct moto under the seat for emergencies. Personally I don't bother to torque the nut any more, just do it as tight as I can by hand, which was ~200 when using a torque wrench of the same length. I do get through tyres quickly though, so the wheel is checked or removed regularly. There is a safety clip in place anyway, so it's not going anywhere (at least it never has so far in the last 8 years). Some years ago (probably 2010) there was a discussion as to why it was such a high torque value, which nobody could really justify. In comparison the monster nut torque is 176nm.
In 30 years of motorcycle riding I have never torqued an axle nut. Never had a problem either. I am an aircraft mechanic and go by feel most of the time....
This thread reminds me of the 'real' Haynes meanings... Haynes: Lightly unbolt... Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your forehead are throbbing then re-check the manual because what you are doing now cannot be considered "lightly". Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise. Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise. You do know which way is anticlockwise, don't you? Haynes: Should remove easily. Translation: Will be corroded into place ... clamp with adjustable spanner then beat repeatedly with a hammer. Haynes: Retain tiny spring... Translation: "Crikey what was that, it nearly had my eye out"! Haynes: Compress... Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on, swear at, throw at the garage wall, then search for it in the dark corner of the garage whilst muttering "******" repeatedly under your breath. Haynes: Inspect... Translation: Squint at really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your wife "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"! Haynes: Carefully... Translation: You are about to cut yourself! Haynes: Retaining nut... Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust. Haynes: As described in Chapter 7... Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start, now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox. Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal. Translation: But you swear in different places.
I used my CTMoto socket yesterday with a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar but the wheel nut wouldn't budge (this time) so I used my 3/4 to 1/2 reducer and a 4' 3/4 inch drive breaker bar the wheel nut still wouldn't budge. The converter snapped. So, I reluctantly milled out the CTMoto socket to 3/4" (there goes my lifetime warranty) Now to try again with 3/4 breaker direct to socket. No sweat! Job done✔️
