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1200 DVT Exhaust Valve Mod Pictures

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by bradders, Mar 30, 2018.

  1. It’s often asked and there is a long running thread, but thought it may be useful to take some pics while I was swapping the can to show what my zero cost mod is. And old spring from an unused ram mount plus cable ties and make sure it’s open, and done.
     
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  2. A8324859-8043-4FE2-B103-C572CF4B7DE5.jpeg 16D56E13-F264-432F-8414-EEE9D5527675.jpeg F47DAEAC-55E8-494C-AA20-B92CD7EA636F.jpeg
     
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  3. Like it, thanks for that. A picture really is worth a thousand words.
     
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  4. Sorry if this been covered before, but what does this mod do? Obviously keep the exhaust valve open all the time, but does it affect small throttle opening running? Does the ecu need flashing? What difference does it make?
    Cheers
     
  5. Modify's the engines ability to keep the value butterfly from been nearly fully closed. Meaning you cannot gain full power as the exhaust gases flow/push back into the engine chamber. Causing the system to not flow like blocking a stream with a dam, only a trickle can flow.
     
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  6. It’s not for performance, it’s for convenience. Although it won’t harm performance ;)

    The valve seizes. A lot! It’s only there for noise, nothing to do with creating pressure, so you’ll find the roar is louder at lower revs. No ecu mod needed.
     
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  7. Can’t you just unscrew the flappy thing (2 screws) and take it off! That’ll just leave the post/pivoty thing there.
     
  8. I think they hammer the protruding end of the screws over (they were on both my multis).
    You could grind them off if you can get in there with a dremmel.

    Easier to fix with a bit of wire and a spring.
     
  9. It needs to cycle or you get mil light. You can add a bypass for £50, but my solution is free :upyeah:
     
  10. Mines had the wire on a spring, the big spring on the top and the flap removed for about 7000 miles now. All good :upyeah:
    Had to drill the two screws out of the flap though.
     
  11. Right, will have a check to see if it's been done already, think it might've because I did think it was quite loud for a std exhaust !!

    Will check and have a play.
    Cheers guys.
     
  12. The screws are spot welded

    I ground off the spot welds with a dremel and removed the screws and flap

    Leave the spindle in place to do its cycle thing
     
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  13. I know, long thread, all been there, etc:rolleyes:....... but removed the butterfly from my bike last night and disconnected the cable with a very pleasing combination of springs and washers:blush:. Wow. What a difference to the mid range:astonished:. SOOOO much nicer to ride. Only used it in touring mode so far on the way into work but I wouldn't be at all surprised if it helped the other modes as well.

    If you haven't done it yet; do it. You'll not regret it. Very easy mod to make. 30 mins tops. Even if you haven't had the problem or the warning light, still do it. You'll love your Multi even more!:cool::heart_eyes:
     
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  14. It certainly gives much more roar at sub4k
     
  15. If I may make a suggestion, the end of the cable and the spring can be enclosed in a small plastic bag full of grease, sealed with a small cable tie (and kept away from the hot bits). Keeps out dirt and corrosion.
     
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  16. What if you just wire the valve open will I throw up a error
    The valve on my DVT has started playing up
     
  17. yes it will throw an error.
    The stepper motor needs to sense when its activated.
    The easiest way is to put the spring on the end of the cable.
    An alternative is to change the cam on the motor which is far more fiddly to do (i've seen these but no idea who sells them).
    Or fit a 'duc-ee' stepper motor eliminator.
     
  18. I'VE had the valve wired open and the servo has been unplugged from the harness I have a DUC -- we gizmo arriving tomorrow just can't see were it plugs in
     
  19. Why not do what JohnW suggests and just put a spring on the end of the cable ?
     
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