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It's Going! (or Maybe Not...)

Discussion in 'Supersport (1974-2007)' started by jimmer, Mar 16, 2016.

  1. You gotta remeber that these bikes are old, the electronics were never great anyway. Im not saying thats the problem but if you do decide to get coils, CA Cycleworks ones are great, or Dynacoils. CA Cycleworks have a higher voltage output so a better spark. As regards the carbs, use an airline through all the jets if you can, a small piece of crud stuck in there can make all the difference. Ive used guitar strings to gently poke through. Good luck
     
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  2. @Exige is the agent for the Ca Cycleworks coils in Britian, you may well get a Forum Discount?
     
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  3. You can always check the coils with a multimeter to see if they are still OK.
    But I reckon carbs are the most likely cause. Reduce the idle speed then try the pilot screws. If you have to remove the carbs, check the float heights not forgetting the float height is not the fuel height because the floats when you measure them are upside down. Also you can't rely on float heights or pilot screws to be the same for each carb.
     
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  4. Cheers Al, in relation to the pilot screws do you think enrichening the mixture would help here or leaning them out?
     
  5. Thanks for the advice everyone, really appreciated. Will be starting off with the meter on the coils, then hit the carbs. If I end up stripping them is there anything in particular I should be looking for? When I've had them apart in the past I've thoroughly cleaned them (two rounds in the ultrasonic bath and blown out with an air line), checked that everything is in good shape and all passageways are clear, all gaskets and o-rings replaced.
     
  6. Try both ways IMO - anywhere between 2 turns out to 4 turns out - just record which way and how much you do it each time.
    However, make sure the pilot screws have a decent spring, decent O-ring and little aluminium washer on them.

    OEM Coils:
    HV circuit resistance: 3700 Ohms +/- 10%
    LV circuit resistance: 0.34 Ohms +/- 10%
    Pickup resistance: 100 Ohms +/- 5%
     
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  7. Buy some Wynns carburettor cleaner - (NB Mind your eyes!) use the thin nozzle tube to squirt it into the pilot circuit - take the pilot screws out so you can squirt in from wherever possible (it is very pressurised and it spits and crackles as well). Also try fitting the float bowl and then squirt a huge load of cleaner into into it, so you can shake it around and get it into the circuit (it doesn't evaporate so fast when contained a bit - that way it gets more chance to break up any crap).

    Also have a look at the choke device needles (one on each carb) - the needles are plastic and can wear badly.
     
    #68 Arquebus, Mar 25, 2019
    Last edited: Mar 25, 2019
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  8. Ive found BSD very good thou there is a few out there that can sort your bike out ...
     
  9. BSD?
     
  10. I tentatively proclaim a great success! Coils checked out in spec according to the Haynes manual so crossed them off the list for now. No carb cleaner to hand but to try and stir things up a little I removed the pilot screws (o-rings, springs and washers all present and correct) and blew a bit of compressed air up into each carb, I then popped the screws back in and set them to 3.25 turns out from fully in.

    Bike started much easier than before and managed to get it to sit at 2000rpm to warm up. Knocked the choke off and took the bike for a wee ride round the block, pulled very well but still a bit lumpy low down, it was at least idling though. Idle was a bit high and revs seemed to be hanging a little, plus there was still the odd backfire, so I took the pilot screws out to 3.5 turns and tried to lower the idle a little. BINGO! Idle about 12-1300 rpm, fairly smooth, no revs hanging and was able to leave it all by itself for a while without it cutting out!

    I'll reserve final judgement till tomorrow night where I'll start her again from cold and see if she behaves. Pulled the plugs afterwards and the horizontal plug looks perfect, the vertical one is a little sooty so will monitor that as the bike gets more running.

    Checked the battery drain while I was at it, measured 0.042 Amps which doesn't seem too concerning.

    Assuming all is well when I get back to the bike tomorrow it's a case of fairings on and try to get it booked for an MOT somewhere, can't wait to get it back on the open road!
     
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  11. Well done you!
    The thing about the coil kit is that it gives a fatter, stronger spark than OEM, so should give easier starting, steadier idling, smoother slow-running and snappier throttle response.
    The biggest thing for me was the elimination of plug-fouling, which was a real problem with my SS.
     
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  12. Yeah the coils definitely aren’t off the cards, it really depends what I’m planning on doing with the bike going forward but for now just wanted to get it running and back on the road.
     
  13. You can't really judge the plug colour from such a short time......get it out on a run of at least 25 miles, then have a look.

    You may find you need to turn the vert cylinder pilot screw in by 1/4 of a turn if is still a bit rich.

    Good news so far, though.
     
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  14. 2EDC8C90-3A68-4380-BB62-5461389CA334.jpeg
     
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  15. Just for your info, the coils resistance can be measured, just like the pickup coils and can appear to be within spec, however can still be duff. The resistance only tells you that there is a completion of the circuit. But if theres an issue, it can sometimes only become apparent when at certain revs/temperature.

    It sounds like you have sorted the bike though, its a great feeling when its done, just in time for Spring!
     
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  16. Yeah I have heard that they can go the same way, seem to be behaving themselves but will only really know when I get it on the road. Just need to find someone to fit me in for an MOT!

    The yellow peril is getting plenty use in the meantime:upyeah:
    B518E56E-EE92-4557-8D5B-8EDE3AD84FF6.jpeg
     
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  17. After a bit more cocking about the bike is finally MOT’d! Absolutely delighted, rides beautifully and feels quick enough given its relative lack of power.

    Planning on putting some miles on it to make sure it’s reliable and might look to move it on to make space for a new project. Time will tell.
     
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  18. Cracking ride on the 600 last night, covered about 50 miles and it rode like a dream, just a really nice little bike. One small issue I noticed during the ride is if I'm up high in the rev range (say about 8k), back off for a corner, then get back on the power (revs somewhere between 5-6k), there tends to be a small hesitation before the bike picks up again. It's fine accelerating through this zone from lower down, only happens when I back off like this. My thoughts are that it could be the float height being a little low but open to suggestion.

    Only other niggling issue relates to starting. Every now and then (say maybe every 3rd or 4th start) nothing happens when I hit the starter button and I have to resort to bump starting the bike. Took the switch apart and it seems to be behaving correctly on the multimeter so thinking that its either the wiring from the switch to the solenoid or the solenoid itself. Anything else I should be looking at?

    Still not sure what I fancy doing with the bike longer term, if I were to keep it there's a fair few areas I'd like to tidy up but equally could be tempted by a different project.
     
  19. Try giving the fuse at the top of the holder a good wiggling
    Also make sure the fuse is nice and flat. Any twist in the blades will severely compromise the connection between fuse and fuse holder
     
    #80 Old rider, May 15, 2019
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
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