Brake and Clutch Fluid change by suction

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by trig, Apr 10, 2013.

  1. Sorry if this has been covered before but I have bought an oil change kit which sucks out the engine oil on my car.
    Can these be used on the hydraulics?
    If so, how is it done? I have a 999.
    Does the hex head bleed screw in the front brake and clutch master cylinder still need to be bled first?

    Thanks
     
  2. If you get oil in your braking system, its f*****d...........
     
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  3. Yes it can be used. I put a rubber hose on the end of the plastic suction hose that fits the bleed nipple, bleed the upper nipples first on the master cylinders then do the calipers. Make sure you keep an eye on the resovior contents as you need to keep these topped up with fresh fluid. While you do the brakes also do the clutch.:upyeah:
     
  4. I didn't think my bike had nipples in the reservoirs, just bleed valves. Are you saying that the suction device is somehow used at the master cylinder end as well as at the slave cylinders?
     
  5. Sorry Peter but you have lost me.I have a 2004 MY 999. It doesn't have bleed nipples at the master cylinders. So what do you attach the suction hose to? Have you used this device on a 999?:smile:
     
  6. No not on a 999, but I thought you might have Brembo master cylinders with a bleed nipple but you clearly do not. You only need to bleed at the caliper end then to achieve good results.
     
  7. TBH if your brake system is full of fluid, just bleed the system as normal,pump the old fluid through [replacing it with fresh fluid as you go] no need to vacuum it out. Just my twopenny worth-good luck.
     
  8. For the amount of fluid in the reservoirs/pipes I can't see the benefit of using a vacuum system. This was some good advice given by forum member Nelly

    "I always do near side first...furthest away from master. also, it's worth syringing the old fluid out of the reservoir first, the push the pads back to push more old fluid into the reservoir, syringe it empty again and then fill with fresh and start bleeding. Gets more of the old fluid out and it's easier to spot the new coming out as it doesn't get mixed with the old fluid. "

    Applies for doing the clutch as well.
     
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  9. What ever you do, do it properly ! I had Brake failer on the back straight a Snetterton at 150 or so. This is not something I would ever recommend! Change of pants was required.
     
  10. On the 999 you have a bleed screw in the reservoir. With the top off, you see a 6mm hex. Crack that half turn, pull the lever in, hold and lock the valve off. Not bleeding here is the biggest reason for the brakes and especially clutch playing up.
    i have a vacuum tool but only use it on a fresh system fill. There's no need to use one on a bike system tbh. The system you have for sump emptying will empty you system in no time.... youll end up chasing your tail refilling the reservoir.
    Use the method above that Chris quoted and you won't go far wrong.
     
  11. I've got a 'Mityvac' pump thingy for brake system filling/bleeding and TBH it's next to useless; not necessary for changing fluid and doesn't fully get rid of the air when bleeding but, at the same time uses a shitload of fluid. If I'm new-filling a system then I use a large syringe from the bottom upwards followed by conventional bleeding to get the air bubbles out...
     
  12. I see. Ok, sounds like I am better to stick to the normal method. Thanks:wink:
     
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