I am replacing the rear pads on my 2013 multi. I know the rear brakes are extremely weak, so I was looking for a more aggressive pad to try and compensate. I'm not bothered about the wear rate if faster wear results in better rear brakes. Has anyone found a better pad than the originals ?
I don’t think it’s the pads that are a problem but the way the entire rear brake is set up on Ducatis making it extremely difficult to bleed out all the air.
I have got all the air out (bleeding the calliper, while holding above the seat ) and the pedal is firm. A more aggressive pad might improve the performance. I know that the chances of locking the rear wheel is probably zero. However I am willing to try a different pad to see if it will help
It was these pads that locked my rear wheel, which led to me getting launched down the road. So yes, more braking power but be careful what you wish for, unless you have abs that is...
Sounds like what I'm looking for. (not the launch bit) I do have abs , but have never been able to force the abs on the back brake. Did your bike not have abs ?
I’m not sure how one can hold the brake above the rear seat and open & close the bleed nipple and operate the brake pedal and top up the master cylinder by one’s self so I presume you had some assistance. I recently fitted EBC HH pads to my 748 and as per @Old rider I can vouch for their efficacy, in my case at the front only, my rear is just the same as before, not too good, thankfully it only needs to be used to provide <10% of the braking. My M1100S on the other hand will quite happily lock the rear wheel when braking, go figure. I strongly suspect that even if you fit different pads you will not notice any difference in braking effectiveness on the rear wheel. All pads nowadays are effective, the biggest influencer is the amount of pressure that can be applied and I suspect that is where your problem lies. However, a neat hack that may work before you buy new pads and assuming your current pads and disks are well within their wear limits, is to remove the pads and the rear wheel and rub the surface of the pads and the disk, on both sides, with something like 240 grit paper. Then blow the residue off with compressed air. It is possible that with the minimal braking efficacy, which occurs as a matter of course, at the rear wheel and the fact the pads have been in situ for some time, a ‘layer’ builds up on the surface of the disks and pads, particularly when they are not cast iron, as will be the case. This layer limits braking efficacy. it’s worth a try before buying new pads.
