Yes mate I have that fitted,it came with the MPL clutch slave. It's about a 6mm insert,designed to extend the pushrod.
Hmmmm. So presuming your clutch is properly bled, have you tried unscrewing the slave, assemble the clutch completely, pump the slave piston out a bit then bolt it to the bike so the clutch rod pushes the piston back to the right position as you bolt it up. Or am i concentrating on the pack thickness too much when you actually think the problem is plate quantity. I do have to admit, i have 2 steels before the pressure plate on my bucci slipper. Erm... i think.
The D/P Slipper 6-ball ramp type requires 36.5 mm stack, 7-friction 3-mm drive plates. 7-steel drive 2-mm plates 1-convex plate 1.5 mm (i dont fit this and just use a flat 1.5 mm steel drive plate). This gives you a 36.5 mm stack which is what the bucci instructions say to use with the slipper on the road. The 38 mm Stack is for a ROAD std clutch not a slipper clutch. As said it will work with diffrent stack heights but it robs one end to pay the other end. just use 7 friction plates . brian.
Yep, gotto admit, i keep mine between 36-37 mm as per Rich from Louigi Motos instructions. He's real helpful so could give him a call, 01761453366
A few people on here say don't use the convex plates, but I had terrible problems without them. The DP slipper clutch on my 1098s used to screech away from stand still and lurch the bike forward. After much tweaking, the cure was to fit 3 convex plates with a stack height of 36.5mm. I've never had a problem since.
Thanks Bri I believe you are right . The pack I have purchased (as above photo) has been sold to me saying it will fit a slipper clutch ,hhmmm maybe it will but not the DP one.
Got me stumped, that eBay link you sent me, all the plates/sizes seem right as per the oe pack I bought. I just measured the old clutch pack I took out and it's just below 37mm (def knacked as clutch was like an on/off switch, and new pack has cured this) but it does mean that with the dished plate and the new friction material my new clutch pack must be around the 38 mm mark, and it works great, no dragging,no neutral issues. Sorry I'm not being any help.
Thank you all I believe this is now sorted , if Id have read the spec on my DP clutch (as provided by Brian) I would have sussed this straight away, instead it had me questioning everything about how a clutch works. I have simply bought a clutch pack that states for use with STD and SLIPPER clutches. If i would have added up the thickness of plates and measured my own I would have had my answer that these thickness's were different. I could almost say I have been mis-sold. Steve I dont know how yours is different, I assume the slipper on your DR16 and 749R are more of a race varient as I'm sure DP did a Strada (road) and a race based version maybe Corse.
No it isn't sorted yet. Clutch pack is same as OEM that came out and is fine for the first ten minutes riding (thats what fooled me into thinking it was alright ,a quick ride around the block) plates must be rubbing together causing friction and overhaeting the whole system. So spoke to Rich at luigimoto this morning explaining everything I'd been doing and it turns out the same as what he said he'd have been looking at . He thinks maybe one or more of the plates could have been delivered warped, when I explained the make (ducabike) to him he said he'd never tried them, prefering to always stick with O.E. stuff ,which I always have till now. ;( So I have ordered a set of Ducati frictions . Lesson no1 stick to what you know unless its proved elsewhere. I went in blind trying to get a better launch, seeing "race plates for dry clutch std or slipper , and got burned . :wink:
Mate, I've heard of so many people getting in a tangle with this. Even technicians at dealers. I've changed out a good few plate packs on my 999S & R that I used to have. I'd get a broom handle or whatever and as I stripped out the old plates I'd slide them on to it sequentially then tie wrap them together for reference. I then simply replaced the new plates like for like. And if I didn't like the look of the new steel rings I'd just use the old ones. Always worked fine. Good luck.
what I can say is that I bought the lightweight corse set which is an alloy carbon/kevlar mix.. it is light but is also the grabbiest-ass clutch ever. if you ever get the chance of one - avoid
If your clutch is grabby, check the convex plates as this helps smooth out the clutch. You may not have any, so you may want to put one (or two!) back in.
cheers to be honest I didnt even look at them to see if there was any difference lol. just wapped those babies in - and they do squeal like babies teething too lol
I think these make a massive difference to the initial take up when letting the clutch in. I think a lot of people overlook their importance. Ducati wouldn't put them there for no reason
My slipper clutch also used to squeal like a stuck pig if you tried to pull away fast. As mentioned fitting two or three convex plates helped a lot. When I fitted one slipper clutch ( EVR) the bike stalled when put into gear and on the paddock stand even in neutral the rear wheel was turning. Took a friction out and juggled the steel plates until I had 1.5mm of free space between the back of the pressure plate and the first steel plate. Check this by poking a 1.5mm allen key through one of the holes. Worked fine then. It was Neil Spalding that told me to check it this way.
Installed Ducati OEM pack minus one 2mm plate giving me a pack thickness of 37.5mm . Straight away it was better ,once fired up will engage 1st , then OMG is it starting to creep forward , yes it fuckin is , then plates spinning past each other settled and it's fine,I could actually feel it bed in. Praise the genuine stuff. I had that crappy ebay bought shite down to 35.5mm and still they wouldnt release from each other. I shall check them on a plate of glass with a feeler gauge just to see out of curiosity if they are warped.
I would guess that they are warped. There's something really amiss if the clutch drags with a stack height of 35.5mm
To add to this , after one event with 5 race starts the clutch has been a problem., today I have stripped the slipper greased the ramps checked the basket for wear and its like new and works perfectly smoothly on the ramps as it should . Clutch sticks if .5mm higher than recommended and slips if .5mm less than recommended. I have changed plates from 2mm to 1.5 and got to the perfect thickness , however it still does one or the other, fricken Ducati clutches eh! , it does however work perfectly if I remove the dished (convex) plate and replace with a flat driven. Havent tried it in anger and if it doesn't work then I give up.
There is so much rollox spoken here the problem WILL be the height of the plate pack assuming it all worked before hand and it is a DP 6 ramp slipper with the 6 spring pressure plate. However, its no good measuring the plates together out of the machine you need to build up the pack in the bike and measure the height from the last plate in up to the face of the inner drum using a vernier gauge, This should be between 4mm -5 mm. There are several threads i remember Nelson posted a good picture of this procedure.
I feel a big argument coming on - particularly when someone mentions rollox after everyone has been civil up to now. The main thing is that everyone is trying to help? As you say Arthur determining the 'all fitted up' clearance is the definitive method for sure but there is nothing wrong with checking stack height - it still needs to be checked. If stack height too small the slave piston can bottom out resulting in clutch slip, if the stack height is too much the outermost friction plate tangs can pop out of the basket when clutch fully disengaged.
