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Another St4s Immoblizer Issue

Discussion in 'Sport Touring' started by mgrover, Dec 27, 2019.

  1. Fuck my life
     
  2. So the fuel pump and the wiring to it must be good, as must the High Tension or Load side of the relay, and the main relay and fuse box. So I'd be looking at the fuel pump relay itself, the wiring, or the ECU.
    A solid brown wire takes 12V to the low tension side of the relay.
    • Have you got 12V at the relay holder? (Relay Pin 85). You should, as the LT side of the relay is fed from the HT power in via a loop wire and it seems your fuel pump feed is OK if a jumper between the two larger terminals makes the fuel pump run.
    • The black/brown wire from Relay Pin 86 should go to pin 6 of the Body connector on the ECU, have you checked this wire for continuity from terminal to terminal?
    • Is the earth wire connected properly to the ECU body (mounting bolt of the ECU)?
    • Is the fuel pump relay NEW? If not, either stick a new one in, or test it with 12V supply and a meter to rule it out. You could try swapping it with the fan relay (also under the seat), but only if it's known good.
    .

    So your new ECU is IAW59M or IAW5AM?

    You need to have your FIAT/Alfa adapter plugged into the diagnostic terminal (3-pin terminal with only two wires in it) and also connected to 12V and Ground via the crocodile clips. Check the polarity on it first, some of them are wired backwards.
    Check you can see your USB-Serial converter in your laptop's Device Manager under "Ports" - COM4 on my laptop for example. Make sure JPDiag is also set to this number.
    For the IAW59M ECU, JPDiag needs to be set to "Slow Init" under the Connect button on the main screen, and you only have a few seconds after switch-on to connect. So turn the key and almost immediately press Connect on the JPDiag main screen. It's pretty slow, but if it connects you should see the hardware version, etc, appear.


    Hope that's all of some use.
     
  3. I'll try all that soon but my obd2 cable seems fucked. I was using it to try to connect to my daytona and dead. Same with my car.

    I have both 5am and 59m ecus. It feels like the ecu isn't getting power tbh. I need to get the body off and have a good look at exactly wtf the fuse box is doing since there's been some messing about near that cable
     
  4. OK, so you can check power easily enough, the ECU gets its power from the Main Relay, this line does go through the big wiring harness connector near the fusebox - are the contacts in this connector clean?
     
  5. ladies and gentlement. she lives. how? i dont have a fucking clue. so its pissing it down last night and the cover had blew off so the bike was drenched. so i go out with the key, for the fun of it, i put it in and turn. the fuel pump primes into life, smoke starts to come from the battery/ecu. i shut it off quickly and think huh maybe ive actually fucked something up.

    today i hook up tune ecu, i flash the ST4S 2005 map onto 5AM. I hit the ignition and she bursts into life

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/FLaChjNnqwpxZuYbA

    ive managed to get hold of a garage, so hopefully the next project is put up the garage, put the ducati inside the garage :p then i purchased the £50 loom. it'll be to reloom and rebuild her in terms of belts, valves etc etc

    edit: there are a few errors from the ECU but one of them is complaining about lambda sensors that dont exist anymore :p another one is complaining about fuel level sensor, P0460, so could my fuel unit be dying?
     
    #286 mgrover, Jun 13, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
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  6. also if anyone needs an old school 59M ecu to let me know. I'd be willing to let it go for not robbery prices like the ones on ebay are.
     
  7. Not surprising. Your ECU is for a different bike. The ST4s never had Lambda sensors nor did the fuel level sender have any connection to the ECU.
     
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  8. really? i swear it would atleast have o2 sensors? the exhaust certainly seems to think so :p
     
  9. The ST4 has 'cats' in the exhausts but no sensors, these bikes are 'old' tech for modern emissions control and bikes were well behind cars on that front too
     
  10. ah am guessing then someone retrofitted newer exhausts/headers on that have the holes but nowhere to plugin.

    i can probably map out the lambda sensors for the error to go away tbh. since i assume by default you can disable them on newer models. as long as i know its not a real issues its gg. people say what about the next owner. am never selling this bike :p shes a lifer.
     
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  11. The OEM exhausts have threaded holes with plugs for the service technician to fit an O2 sensor for setting the CO.
    See item 8 in this screenshot from the parts list.

    Screen Shot 2020-06-18 at 12.20.32.png
     
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  12. ah fair enough. i learn something new early day with this bike haha
     
  13. so am back :p i took the bike for its first longer ride today. 40 miles, nothing too crazy. around the 20ish mile the bike cut out and fuel pump wouldn't prime. am guessing its the wires people mentioned. it randomly started to work again after i waited about 5 mins. then worked till i got home and cut out as i entered my drive which had a little bump, am guessing dislodged the wires again

    also a bit of an update on the ecu. it definitley seem to improve starting, the first crank of the bike is weak but the battery is strong so am sure this old loom is knackered somewhere. but it fires consistently even from a really weak crank which seems helped by the 5AM ECU and the 2005 Map.
     
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  14. shes finally in a garage now. but ive got a new issue.

    all garaged up and dry:

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/duKBjkNRXXvPeqqZ6

    i charged battery and she started first time no issues, god what a reliable beauty.

    i was checking the wires for the fuel pump(I know 5 months too late but i didn't wanna be stripping her down with nowhere to work on her) the resistance on all the wires are fine no matter how much i move them, wiggle and any of it. so i didn't want to be stripping the epoxy for no reason.

    so while making a mess with the petrol with the tank off I thought maybe I go start the bike. so it cranked for days but never fired. is that related to the fuel pump not being plugged in? I assumed there might be a tiny bit of fuel left in the pipes to fire just once? but am guessing with no pump no diff.

    i also managed to drain and clean out a lot of crappy little bits that were blocking the drain hole. Like a ton of little rust flakes. Is there anything else I can do for the fuel tank whilst its empty?

    Also the O-ring for the fuel pump, mine seems to of stretched quite a bit, is this the right place for the oring?

    https://photos.app.goo.gl/wbp4Lx9LSR7s3Z7MA

    cause mine sagged so much that when i shoved it in it got trapped and tore apart, so will the new one i ordered(genuine ducati) be nice and tight?

    before I throw the other loom i had on it, anyone know what can cause the fuel pump to stop priming but the relay is clicking fine? is it just those cables in the pump?

    cheers
    Martin
     
  15. If the fuel pump isn't plugged in, it definitely won't start.
    The new O-ring should be fine, just try to lubricate it with either fresh fuel or red rubber grease if you have any - NOT normal grease, it could cause the O-ring to swell.
    If the relay is connecting properly (clicking is not necessarily a sign of a working relay) then it sounds like your issue could well be with the fuel pump wiring. Worth checking with a new relay first though.
     
  16. ill see how it behaves after its all plugged in. just waiting on new oring to arrive. i mean am going to replace the loom anyways. but i wanna fix this issue first to be certain its done with.
     
  17. Yes, that’s the correct place.

    When replacing the assembly grease the ring as said above then I find it easiest to lay it flat just above the opening, get 3 bolts of the same thread (M6 iirc) but longer than the correct length bolts. How much longer? Long enough they just reach the threaded holes without the assembly being pushed into the opening in the fuel tank. Then gradually tighten them each one a bit at a time no more than 1 turn before moving into the next one. They will slowly pull the plate into its opening in a straight manner without the o-ring getting nicked. Swap them for the original shorter bolts when you can no longer turn them due to them bottoming out in the threaded holes.

    The original bolts are too short to reach their threaded holes when the assembly plate is sitting on the tank leaving you no option other than to try and push the plate home which is nigh on impossible to keep level and invariably ends up with a nicked o-ring.
     
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  18. ill give that a shot thanks.

    tbf the oring was already nicked and needed replacing but i noticed when i was filling up it was just gushing out the other side haha
     
  19. The STs are a bit different to the Superbikes in that the plate goes onto 3 x studs that are welded into the bottom of the tank. The plate is held in by nuts with collars on (pic stolen from the net).
    Annotation (1).png
     
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