Does anybody know where there is a good, clear tutorial for checking and adjusting the valve clearances (shims) on a 900SD or similar? It looks fiddly but I'd like to be able to do this myself rather than take it to a specialist if possible. I can see a few videos on YouTube which show the job being done with the heads or engine on a bench but these aren't very clear as they try and explain what they're doing with their hands in the way and nobody seems to show it with the engine in the frame. Is there a decent step by step guide anywhere?
The reason nobody shows it with the engine in the frame is because it would be even less clear due to the restricted access. Plus even for someone who does know what they are doing it can be a right royal pain to do it in situ. It's a time expensive job. If you still want to do so then I would suggest only taking the valve covers off & spending considerable time just measuring clearances and watching what is going on whilst referencing the videos. Any removal/replacement work provides ample opportunity to make things considerably worse if you don't know exactly what you are doing. And to turn the engine over n.b. it runs backwards, you really need one of these https://www.lasertools.co.uk/Product/5181/Crankshaft-Turning-Tool-for-Ducati You've probably seen these two but these are probably the best ones out there:
I guessed it won't be easy, but I like a challenge... What I'm really after is a written guide - like a Haynes manual but one you can actually trust. It all looks fairly accessible apart from the vertical cylinder inlet side which looks like a job for a gynaecologist if ever I saw one, but with the battery out it should be doable.
As long as the motors running fine how about just measuring and learning during this years riding season and come the winter take the front head off and do it at your leisure & in the comfort of the home. You will then get a better idea of what's involved & the possible pitfalls. Btw removing the rear head involves pivoting the engine down from the rear plus removal of both side engine covers. Agree, it's the closing shims that are the tricky ones and having a valve slip through it's guide or dropping a half ring down the drain oil hole is a lot less troublesome when on the bench. Plus replacing it's rocker pin and spring is an err... 'fraught' affair even with the 'correct' tool.
@Mullinsm I find that adjusting valves on a Bevel is no different than on any other Desmo engine. Doing it with the motor in the frame is not a problem at all, as long as you have removed enough things that may be in the way. I personally think access is actually significantly easier than on some later models. And being D2s (two valves per cylinder), it’s definitely less work that on a D4… Have you heard about LT Snyder and his US based site/shop Desmotimes ? Everything you need to know is in his books and he sells pretty much all the special tools and shims you may need. https://desmotimes.com/ Another good read is this: https://www.odd-bike.com/2012/12/how-to-adjust-ducati-desmo-valves.html?m=1 Also, you will find below some pics of my recent experience setting the valves on my Darmah, with the engine in the frame. This was not my first Desmo job, as I had adjusted a couple D2s before as well as my 916 D4. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/1980-darmah-900-ssd-in-france.101780/page-7 Finally, I shared my personal experience here about measuring shims. As you are entering the realm of the 1/100th of millimeter, it is very important to understand what you’re doing in that department and using the right tools before doing it alone. That and how to measure clearances, obviously. https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/threads/valve-clearance-measurements.101461/page-2#post-2210743
Don’t hesitate to ask questions. I was a little confused with the « near 0 » closing clearance required for these motors at first. Knowledgeable people here helped me figure it out.
Cam profiles wear, and the feet on rockers wear, especially if they are 40 or 50 years old. Don't assume the base circle is still precisely circular - check. And don't assume that the opening cam and closing cam still precisely correspond around all 360 degrees - check. Tightness or pinch is totally unacceptable. A little slack is not so serious.
If it helps, and in addition to the more informed previous posts, there's a 900SD Workshop Manual at: https://www.bevelheaven.com/manuals/Darmah_W.pdf . The general Bevel Heaven link to manuals is: https://www.bevelheaven.com/manual-index.htm . Also a 900SD Workshop Manual described as: 900 Darmah Workshop Manual; but with an unexpected link title of: https://www.ricambimoto.uk/collecti...products/copy-of-959-panigale-workshop-manual ; main site manual link: https://www.ricambimoto.uk/collections/workshop-manuals? - Page 2. I don't know if these will help with your valve clearance adjustment, so better to check first, and the information in the previous posts may better provide what you need. Hope it helps & good luck. Tom.
As with the comments from @Pete1950, I take the heads off so i can feel the drag from the closers. The base circles do vary. You can also check just by rotating the closer shims by finger and see if they bind. It is possible to turn the engine with tight shims and still rotate it which is why I do it with the heads off and turning the bevel shafts. Once they are done I doubt I will ever do the mileage again to redo them
