1260 Error Lights, No Idea Why?

Just to be pedantic (for good reason) here. Trickle charger or optimising battery tender designed for Lithium batteries?

It may be you use the term trickle charger as a generic term, a bit like ‘Hoover’ or it may be an actual trickle charger which continually trickles a sub 1amp charge into the battery regardless of the battery’s condition. If so, that will destroy the lithium battery fairly quickly.

Sorry to be pedantic but one doesn’t know unless one asks.

 

Unfortunately not so easy on newer bikes. I think @West Cork Paul has had the same problem that I had in that the computer kicks out a load of messages including e.g. a speed sensor when the problem was actually a short in the rear shock messing with the canbus.
Sometimes it takes a lot of effort to sort the wheat from the chaff.

 

Seems to be a theme with (most) dealers. They'll only act on what their diagnostic tools tell them instead of doing what you've asked - actually get out there and ride the damn thing! As they're not actually doing fault analysis, etc they don't have the skills to diagnose tricky problems. Urgh.

 

Ask the dealer if he’ll share the output of the DDS Global Scan interrogation with you*. There clearly were faults otherwise the lights wouldn’t have been activated. Even if those faults weren’t active when the bike was interrogated they will be stored in there as memorised faults. Many of them (especially canbus related ones) may indeed be due to low voltage from the battery or an interrupted supply and can perhaps be ignored but something tripped the various rider aids to be deactivated and I struggle to believe/understand nothing was stored.

* I doubt they will, I doubt they even kept a printed copy of it for their files, but you never know unless you ask.

 

It seems to me that a bad electrical connection could create the faults but could be intermittent. Hence why they were showing then clearing and coming back again later. Of course there would stored error codes but since the fault is intermittent the dealer won't find the problem just by doing a diagnostic check. They need to check the integrity of the related circuits, most likely the front wheel speed sensor.

 

True, intermittent errors see the worst, but they would (or should) see the stored error codes and use that as a basis for their investigation, they seem to have just put it down to a problem with the battery.

However, this is the issue with dealers as opposed to the likes of you & I Derek. The dealer’s staff are under the cosh to find a solution and get the bike out of the workshop and billed for. They don’t have the luxury/time to be able to fully investigate and diagnose it if it means they can only charge for a fraction of the time they actually spend on getting to the bottom of the issue.

 

@Martylaa I'm sorry to hear that this issue is continuing to give you grief. As @West Cork Paul says; the dealer is probably out of time on what they can easily achieve in terms of a diagnosis. It's not great TBH and another dealer maybe more persistent. The fact that it's a warranty issue on a used bike that they're covering off their own backs makes me think that they've cleared the codes and are hoping that it's just a 'blip'. It might just be that, though from my own experience with a damaged rear wheel sensor that came back two years later and needed replacing. I cleared the codes without doing anything other than romoving the sensor and seeing some slight damage. It was still consistently working at this point. It finally failed due to, I think, water ingress.

Not all dealers are the same. Maybe on your own coin they'd be more thorough, not that I'm suggesting that you should be doing that on a bike under warranty. Ducati Nice spent well over an hour this time last year making sure it was only the switch cluster we all suspected causing an electrical issue. They only charged for 30 minutes too.

Suggesting that you'd be considering returning the bike as not fit for purpose if this problem returns could galvanise them into action on spending a little more time on this. Not sure on the rules on this course of action though so would suggest some research first before going down that route.

Good luck.

 

i this was a ducAudi or any other vehicle for that matter i would have near zero doubt that it was more of a mechanical error than an electrical one. but it is v.easy to get tunnel vision when diagnosing against the clock.
is it possible that live data can be observed or recorded during a test ride on a motorcycle using their diag equipment?
if i have read this right, the ABS resets on every cycle of the key until a certain distance or speed? has been covered but no errors? if so, that's got damaged reluctor/ABS ring or insecure abs sensor/mismatched tyres written all over it. it could of coarse be an internal fault with the ABS control unit but v,unlikely. but never say never. it could be some kind of CAN fault or even a body computer ect freeking out when over loaded trying to process to much info. not that uncommon btw. just disconnecting the battery (both terminals) and earthing the positive out on the chassis for a few minuets usually sorts that.
the symptoms for those faults (if i have read it right) before the light illuminates and switches the ABS Function off can often be felt through the the brake pedal. just a very slight but rapid pulse al low speed braking.
first thing first if no obvious fault with reluctor ring or an insecure ABS sensor excessive airgap between the sensor and ring is found i would be monitoring live data.

 

I believe it is. Whilst I have no direct experience with DDS, I do with Texa and Texa make the DDS system, the difference in the 2 being the branding on the screens, the fact DDS has a direct pass through to the factory and some functions eg VIN writing which are disabled in Texa but presumably enabled in DDS with the factory’s say so.

With Texa, you can connect the device, select the parameters you want to monitor, run the engine, even go for a ride, whilst it records everything live which can then be viewed/analysed on the computer.

Additionally, where there is an active or stored/memorised error if you drill down into it you can see exactly when it happened, how many times it has happened and a whole host of information about what was going on within the bike at that time ie freeze frame details.

As I mentioned above, the luxury of time to spend on something like this is not on the dealer’s side.

 

It’s under warranty Marty, it’s for them to fix it, replace it, or refund IMO.

 

I had to do this with a car the had an intermittent electrical issue a couple of years ago. IFRC you only have 1 month after purchase where you can reject the vehicle. after that you have to allow the to repair it.

 

That seems to be the case throughout the motor industry these days. They will try to find the fault through diagnostics rather than do a physical examination to find a faulty component / connection etc. Because it's cheaper for them but it doesn't always work for intermittent problems as we see here.

 

The issue with this bike reminds me of a similar problem that I had with an early 1200 Multi that I used to own. The ABS, DTC and Error light would come randomly and then clear again. The speedo reading wasn't affected so I reckoned that the problem must lie with the front wheel speed sensor since the speedo reading is taken from the rear wheel sensor.
I tracked it down to an internal break in the cable to the front wheel sensor where it was cable tied art the bottom steering yoke. It was tied in a way that put a strain on the cable at full left lock. This was a frequent fault on the early 1200 MTS models. A replacement sensor and re-routing of the cable fixed the problem. There is thread about it from about 12 years ago.
I would imagine that there must have been stored faults but I didn't have the means to read them at that time. Whether they would have helped it's hard to say but in the OP's case for all the cost of a sensor it would be wise for the dealer replace the front wheel one anyway.