OEM is, I think, Regina chain. The 'soft link' for this I believe needs a staking tool to peen the rivets properly. DID chain has a different system. Each will need a specific tool as well as the appropriate link to securely join the chain. Not sure if you can use, for example, a DID link (and thus the tool), on another brand? Fundementally, to break and rejoin the chain will require some investment that will only be recouped over a few years and several chain changes. Might be best to struggle and curse a bit... It is possible. Just seems impossible for some time and then bingo, it's off. Be prepared to get quite filthy with chain grease in the process... Getting the 14T back on is a breeze by comparison.
I think I will do as you suggest and try to remove the chain without splitting it and see how that goes. Cheers for the input.
Firstly fold the front sprocket tab washer back and remove the nut. You'll need to remove the clutch slave cylinder. Then slacken the eccentric hub fully and drop the chain off of the rear sprocket. You'll need to pull the front sprocket as far up the output shaft splines as the chain allows. Getting as much chain as you can ahead of the vertical frame spar as possible will help. You'll need to find the sweet spot that allows the chain over the teeth of the sprocket without being fouled by the engine casing. As someone suggested above; using a dremmel you can cut the tips off of a couple of sprocket teeth. Once you start to think it's impossible it'll suddenly happen Good luck!
I had a go last night and certainly succeeded on the cursing front but not much else! I will resume my efforts over the weekend. Is it necessary/sensible to replace the lock washer and nut? Cheers
Removing the chain from the rear sprocket as per my earlier post was paramount in achieving success with my effort. Place something under the swingarm to support the chain. Then feed as much though to the front sprocket area and ahead of the vertical frame spar. This will make it easier to move the front sprocket further along the splines of the output shaft. Someone else on here recently took a Dremmel to the tip of one of the sprocket teeth, then rotating this to problem area, when doing this job. Sounds like a good course of action if you have a Dremmel. Technically replacement of the tab washer is probably recommended. I reused mine on opposing different flats of the nut, i.e. on parts of the washer not bent up the last time... Good luck!
Can anyone tell me which direction clockwise or anti clockwise I need to turn the front sprocket nut to get ithe front sprocket nut off? Failed to move it in either direction so far - I have bent the lock washer out of the way but cannot budge the thing. I have a rattle gun but don’t want to use it unless it is not going to damage my gearbox and I know the correct direction to turn to undo. Manual just says undo the nut! Cheers
Lefty loosey, righty tighty! So, anticlockwise to undo, clockwise to tighten. That applies to all nuts and bolts on the bike, with the possible exception of the left hand mirror stem. That has an anticlockwise force (the moving air) acting on it so is usually a left hand thread. That front sproket nut is tight, so will need to use your rattle gun.
Try and take some tension with the chain and rear brake rather than transmit the rattle gun shocks to the gearbox.
I will try again with a longer breaker arm/tube like I have used on the rear wheel nut previously - I understand the gbox nut is tightened to circa 186 nm so not as much but pretty tight! I will have another go in the morning as my son will be over and able to help keep the bike steady. Fingers crossed!
I was wary of using my rattle gun on the sprocket nut with the bike in gear. I know that the gearbox can take considerable load but that from a rattle gun I didn't fancy applying. Whether I'm right or wrong on this the consequences of damage to the gearbox didn't bear thinking about. Instead I applied the rear brake and leant over the bike. It took a little while but the nut did come off.
I agree, whilst the rattle gun is very effective it is rather brutal. Using it on a gearbox is very different to using it on wheel and axle nuts. I will use the rattle gun as a last resort as I am feeling unusually optimistic today so hopefully I will not need it.
