Good day all, I will be doing my first belt change on the 916 this winter, has anyone got a good youtube video to watch, that will help me along the way? Cheers Jamie
It’s a while since I have watched that but I’m not certain he tells you to remove both spark plugs before starting the belts. No way you could turn the engine over on the wheel without doing that first.
I did mine myself for the first time a couple of years ago, pretty straightforward really, as stated above remove both spark plugs ,put it in gear and use the rear wheel to line the pulleys up. Just dont forget to put the bike back in neutral after fitting the new belts and starting the bike...i forgot and started the bike in gear and almost had a heart attack, i thought the engine had detonated!
Better yet, get an engine turning tool - not expensive (given what you'll save by not paying someone to do the job) and so much easier to turn with precision, using the wheel tends to over-run when you want to stop it at a precise position plus, it's just easier, even more so when checking your valve clearances. Like this; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12578152...ZASSR1B8l+YhmEIexFKiZMfA==|tkp:Bk9SR77MzYCwZg Or, if you're handy in the workshop (or a tight-arse) not that difficult to make something similar.
A simple bolt and nut does the job. But I prefer the wheel as you can turn the engine from the same side as cambelts so it’s easy to line up. Horses for courses I guess.
Yes, even a nut and bolt turned with a spanner or socket is a far better option than using the wheel. The only downside is that a straight bolt without the 2 'keys' that go into the crankshaft tends to loosen when rotating because it's not locked in place. One warning though, don't start the engine up with the turning tool attached...
I tried the bolt approach to help with fine adjustments to align the crankshaft punch marks with the pointer through the alternator cover window, but as it seems generally accepted not to turn the engine ‘backwards’, as Dukedesmo says, even with the spark plugs removed the bolt just loosens when trying to turn the engine.
Not sure that will make a difference as turning the engine the correct way just unscrews the bolt from the crank whether using the head of the bolt or two nuts locked together on the shaft…unless I’m missing something?!! It would work if you turned the engine backwards as that will tighten the bolt into the crank but advice I read was not to do that. Used the back wheel which was actually fine as it turned out.
Meh, I just put the bike into 6th gear and rotate the engine that way. As said I work on the belt side and rotate the wheel with my left hand
I see no reason to not turn the engine backwards? though, I would advise that if you do then you turn it back a little further and then forwards again just to ensure the load is in the correct direction. But yes, if using a nut and bolt, it tends to undo when turning the engine forwards which is why I'd advise getting a £20 - £30 tool (can be had for £17 on AliExpress yer tight-arses), after all you're saving £100s by not paying someone to fit the belts and even more if you do the valve clearances whilst you're in there.
Never had any bother with mine but, to be clear I'm not advocating rotating it backwards just, sometimes nudging it back a little to get the cams lined up etc.
Doh! Senior moment. Of course it does. In my defence I just use the wheel like I said. Much easier in my book.
