Hi Folks, I have an EVR slipper clutch that’s done <2k miles. After a 100 mile ish ride last week, the ‘bite point’ was a long way out and I got wrist ache on the way home. Adjusted the span on the lever and could feel the bite point much closer. Too close in fact. Rode it today for first time and it’s a pig - bite almost at the lever. However, I’m not sure the lever is the issue. It’ll drop into 1st OK, but doesn’t like shifting up without a fair bit of force and you cannot find neutral easily/at all when the engine is running. With engine off, I’ve had the neutral light on and it’s been in 1st gear. I had this before and my mechanic gave it a bleed and all was well…..so….I’ve bled everything properly (a mate with more ahem mechanical sympathy checked and confirmed AOK). And it’s pretty much the same. We had the slave off and cleaned it up. Fair bit of friction material but nothing shocking - fluid was greyish before bleed. I did think maybe the clutch springs need adjusting but am a bit of a luddite. Before I pay someone to diagnose/fix, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks BJB
Many new slipper clutches need to bed in a bit before they are smooth however I think you need to go through everything. Have you bled both the slave and master cylinders? That will be oil and grime near the slave. Shouldn't be any friction material on that side of the engine. Once you get it right it will be more comfortable
Frim your description it sounds like you have air in the master cylinder, bleed it at the master cylinder and see what, if any difference, that makes.
Just cable tie the lever back to the bar and leave it overnight then bleed at the m/c. Any air will rise to the top overnight and into the m/c as you’re holding the valve open with the cable tie. This assumes of course you dont have a failed seal at either the m/c or the slave which is letting air in, but it’s the easiest thing to do first.
Right. MS nipple cracked and an upright piece of pipe fitted. Level cable tied to the bar and reservoir cap open. Watch this space. Bet the suspense is killing you
The bleed nipple is tight though isn’t it? It’s not loosened off whilst the lever is cable tied to the bar is it? Otherwise as soon as you release the cable tie on the the lever air will get sucked in past the bleed nipple.
@West Cork Paul I think on reflection I may have misread your instructions. So I’ve cable tied the lever back and left everything done up tight, then in the morning, release the lever, open the nipple and bleed to release any air? Sorry for being a twat.
Hi folks - it’s sorted. It seems my bleeding was spot on. Problem was with the so-called span adjuster at the lever. I took the little knob thingy off and used grips to tuen the adjuster and bring the lever out so the clutch could actuate properly. Sweet. And I learned to bleed a clutch
