You can get the code two ways. 1. Read the 24c16 chip 2. Read the transponder in your key For 1 follow the pdf file instructions For 2 you need something like a ZedBull Mini to read the key transponder. If you search my posts you will find a number of my posts on the subject together with some excel tools to help calculate the bypass code. Personally I use a genuine Coright SkyPro eeprom reader/writer. Do not buy a Chinese clone as SkyPro can brick them through firmware.
So, I decided to replace the main wiring harness. Found a good one on ebay and installed it, at first it threw about 4 or 5 codes. Rechecked a couple connections and also changed the ECU to one with a more appropriate MAP. The codes went away and it started right up. However, the first thing I noticed is that the starter button behaves differently now. It was normally the way you would expect it. Push the button and release, the bike would turn over until it started and then disengage. Now you need to press and hold the start button until it starts. Has anyone else seen this before? Not sure if makes much difference but I would like to fix this.
One more thing, while reinstalling the dash/gauges, I cracked the LCD screen. Totally my fault. Anyone know where i can buy just the screen?
Hi Chris, good to see you still on here. Any idea how or why my starter sequence has changed? I have 3 different ECUs and it has changed on all three. The thing I can think of is that maybe the wiring harness I used is slight different than the standard harness. Meaning, I have a 2010 1198 and maybe the harness is from a 1198S...?
@Chris I was able to load the tune you sent me and it does work but it doesn't work great. I rode it around the block a couple times last night but it didn't run very good. I'm still struggling with the IMMO too, for now i am just entering the code each time i start it.
