I should add that was 13.7V with moderate revs I couldnt tell you how many revs as i dont have a tacho!
Thank you for your input I hope so. Im going to start methodically checking connectors starting with the one behind the battery for the RR, and then work my way around the loom (again).....all while hoping someone has a lightbulb moment for me!
There's a 19 pin connector on the right front of the bike that is a known source of problems. Give that a clean with contact cleaner. It's where the front harness connects to the rear harness
Excellent. I like pictures! Will put high on the list during my next round of fault finding I fear a long winter ahead!
hope you find it, when searching for broken circuits, nothing makes me happier than unplugging a connector and finding traces of green etc discolouration and as said, this major connector is rarely seperated but can suck moisture in. You need patience to split as has a rapid "spiral" for a thread, and sometimes hard to budge. If you have one or two sets of soft grip cupped-face pliers then perfect for the job if stubborn - you might be lucky and find it splits easily but i've had to resort to pliers before now, but needs that "cupped" surface area to be effective and not leave marks, but plug body is pretty tough steel.
Great advice. Really appreciate it. I'm kinda hopeful that this kind of stuff was checked by Rich at Luigi Moto when he had it, but no harm in taking it all apart again and checking Exhaust all options before considering the ECU
As said above pin 24 from the ECU "switches" the tacho. Not sure if this is 12v or 5v? On the switch signal. If you are using a digital multimeter you may need to turn it to A/C setting. Engine turning. However this probably will not work as multimeters are tuned for 50 hertz. 240v/50hz. Getting to the ECU is not difficult. Disconnect battery, for safety/damage reasons and check wire continuity. If no joy maybe you do need an ozzy scope.
A upper-level (e.g. Fluke) multimeter will probably have 'Hz' measurement (mine has). Worth the OP asking around...
A bit low with the ignition off but since the bike isn't running the tacho wouldn't be registering anyway. The voltage with the bike at side is probably about right for idle speed. It should be more or less battery voltage which I'd expect to over 14V at 2,000 rpm. Does it rise when you increase the revs? The tacho is very susceptible to a low supply voltage and a non functioning tacho is often the first sign of a voltage regulation failing.
