Hi looking at getting my 1260 MS mapped, as im really struggling with the low range hunting, and jerky on/off throttle. I've fitted a full Akra system as i heard that this helps, and it does up to a point, but still not perfect. I can live with it around town, but hairpins are a nightmare. Im not chasing horsepower just smooth fuelling. Options that i can tell are : Remap from BHP - about £400, i havent seen any feedback( good or bad) about this . Rapid Bike evo - about £350 , this should help with fuelling, but not sure if it does much at partial throttle openings, due to closed loop? Hilltop re-map-£? I dont believe all the negative crap about them, but not sure if this will be any better/ different to a BHP map? Open to suggestions, preferably with real world results. TIA.
Best done by someone with a dyno. If the cat is gone then the o2 sensors can be turned off and the map made to the specific bke and exhaust system combination.
I had my V4s mapped using a flasher tool and found it great , BHP Uk do dyno sessions if needed but looking at what they do they are very thorough and the extensively test there own bikes (standard or decat) to get max results and / or keep good file history for many bikes tuned by them. The flasher route works well enough for the road , If I was track racing I would have individual maps made for specific tracks as this would work the same as suspension setting to get the best for the fastest laps , no so on the road. Just about to get the new map for my 25 plate V4s as had them before on all my Multi V4 and Gs. Remember , good brakes and tyres are more important that tune , but put both together a win win.
Thats great ta. Nice to hear someone whos actually used them . I know what you mean about brakes and tyres- suspension too, but the MS isn't lacking in any of these, but its just throttle response not power that im after. I think I'll probaly pull the pin on this .
Now i dont mind an excuse for a ride out, but you couldn't have recommended anyone further away. Its about 800 miles round trip.
Drop 1 tooth on the front sprocket or go up 2 or 3 teeth on the rear sprocket, just picks the revs up above the ‘bog’ band. Andy
Your on/off jerkiness sounds like a well known problem on the 1260. There is slack in the twist grip that means your input can be delayed and snatchy. There is a simple solution and that is a Throttle Spacer. Here are some on ebay - I've fitted one similar to these and it works: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p3519243.m570.l1313
Not sure about the mapping options you have mentioned but if they get feedback from the o2 sensors then you need wide band ones. Bmw s1000rr have them as standard but haven't checked on really modern ducatis. Snatchy throttle is also caused by lean fuelling. And an easy quick fix is also to get the overrun throttle cutoff deleted
I had a feeling thatvit already had one fitted, as theres zero slack in the throttle, just had a quick look and looks like it is fitted , thanks for the advice though.
I'm tempted to do this as well, as sixth gear is so high, its barely ever used, even at motorway speeds and it would certainly make hairpins easier being in a better rev range . But i also prefer to fix the problem rather than work around it, so looks like I'll have it mapped as well. On a side note when the f£&% did chain and sprockets become so expensive? Ive obviously either been chopping and changing so often or riding shaft drives for so long that im out of touch. Last time i bought one it was about £120 for a DiD chain and renthal sprockets.
There’s Dragon Motorbikes in Gateshead, or P3 in Liverpool (assuming you’re in Cockermouth as per your avatar).
This (dropping to a 14T front sprocket), the throttle spacer and deleting the exhaust flapper valve has made an appreciable difference to the low revs, town speed, control on both my current and previous 1260 Multis.
[QUOTE On a side note when the f£&% did chain and sprockets become so expensive? Ive obviously either been chopping and changing so often or riding shaft drives for so long that im out of touch. Last time i bought one it was about £120 for a DiD chain and renthal sprockets.[/QUOTE] Think Alan at Hunters is probably the cheapest in the UK https://share.google/1lSqsWMZjTmfwHzfb
Think Alan at Hunters is probably the cheapest in the UK https://share.google/1lSqsWMZjTmfwHzfb[/QUOTE] That's where i get mine from. Been dealing with him for about 40 years....
That's where i get mine from. Been dealing with him for about 40 years....[/QUOTE] Just had a look, and i see he's left the hill, must be almost the last one to go? Apart from M&S who must be on their last legs.
Just had a look, and i see he's left the hill, must be almost the last one to go? Apart from M&S who must be on their last legs.[/QUOTE] He is team valley now near to Custom Lids . M&S still sort of there and a couple of small indies but thats it. You can get carribean food or a Turkish haircut though.
Steve Yardley on this forum runs SRS Performance. He does ECU flashing to maps that he's developed on his own Dyno. Very respectable guy. Very professional and knows his onions. He offers a priority ECU mailing service. My 2016 1200 MTS ECU was flashed by Steve for £175. I made contact with him when I bought my 2018 1260S and he confirmed that he's developed a number of maps for the 1260 with good results, the selection of which is down to what exhaust, air filter and other mods you've done to your bike. His re-map can delete the exhaust servo too if you chose to or you can just fit a Healtech ESE dongle to do the same. Along with a 14T front sprocket and throttle spacer kit it absolutely transforms the bike, in particular making 30 mph and 40 mph speeds much much more easier and eradicates snatch and jerkiness. I'm well pleased with mine with 14T sprocket, throttle spacer and SRS ECU re-map being the best bang for buck mods I've done. Good luck mate. Rich B.
I have often read about the throttle spacers making a difference and reducing jerkiness but have never been sold on them despite people saying they are a good mod. I appreciate there is some movement before engine revs change on the standard set up but it is predictable and what movement there is is against spring tension and easily controlled. How does this initial movement induce jerkiness? The free movement can actually help when you hit ruts etc by reducing the sensitivity of the throttle. Unfortunately I have not ridden a bike with throttle reducers so have nothing to compare to - how do they reduce jerkiness? Making the throttle slightly quicker acting I understand but how do they reduce jerkiness?
