what is the correct procedure to check the chain tension with the single-sided swingarm? I’ve always heard two conflicting opinions: One method is to push the chain down with your finger, release it, and then take the measurement. The other is to keep the chain pressed down, as in the screenshot from the attached manual, and take the measurement while applying pressure with your finger. Obviously, the two methods give very different results. It’s also important to understand how much pressure to apply with the second method, because clearly, the more you push down, the more slack you measure…
apologies for no replies on here - i think it's because of the divided thoughts/many different methods on this*, that it's easier to just not get involved rather than answer and then feel you have to defend it (the opinion in your answer). I wouldn't want to explain in words the way i check my chain, and it's not just what's on that sticker alone. I think if you read up on as many different people's accounts as possible, you can then take an average view of all of them, and just apply that. * I nearly added a "golden rule" on chain adjustment, but then realised i will probably get shot down, even on this!!
Perfect response Chris. In a nut shell. I actually started a response then thought the better of it. Sad really.
i guess then i'll ask a question people might not be afraid to answer, so we are taught mostly that loose is better than tight. can too loose increase wear? (i'm not talking so loose it can jump a teeth or fall off the sprocket, but just looser than spec, say spec calls for 40mm of slack vs 45-50mm)
If it’s any help I always maintain mine on the centre measurement of manufacture's data, at the tightest point of the chain run. So for example if manufactures spec was 38 to 42 mm I would adjust to 40mm. I wouldn’t purposefully set it slacker than they recommend, as I like a nice tight drive chain with positive gear changes.
Too tight can lead to wear issues in the final drive, but more troublesome, failure of the out put shaft bearing or even bending of the output shaft itself. If in doubt, err on the loose side. Follow the manual for the bike. It states and shows the measurements being taken with the chain being held down. Other SSA are different. 996 was done on deflection, the later bikes are with chain at rest. Throw in everyone’s different ideas and you’ll end up with a multitude of different methods and most will be incorrect
there we are, even my earlier advice isn't quite right and needs explaining! What I meant was Neil, and I've had this happen to me, is that the more information that you read on a similar subject, the more you start to see a pattern emerging where people are agreeing on the same method, that's all I meant by the earlier comment.
