what is the correct procedure to check the chain tension with the single-sided swingarm? I’ve always heard two conflicting opinions: One method is to push the chain down with your finger, release it, and then take the measurement. The other is to keep the chain pressed down, as in the screenshot from the attached manual, and take the measurement while applying pressure with your finger. Obviously, the two methods give very different results. It’s also important to understand how much pressure to apply with the second method, because clearly, the more you push down, the more slack you measure…
apologies for no replies on here - i think it's because of the divided thoughts/many different methods on this*, that it's easier to just not get involved rather than answer and then feel you have to defend it (the opinion in your answer). I wouldn't want to explain in words the way i check my chain, and it's not just what's on that sticker alone. I think if you read up on as many different people's accounts as possible, you can then take an average view of all of them, and just apply that. * I nearly added a "golden rule" on chain adjustment, but then realised i will probably get shot down, even on this!!
Perfect response Chris. In a nut shell. I actually started a response then thought the better of it. Sad really.
i guess then i'll ask a question people might not be afraid to answer, so we are taught mostly that loose is better than tight. can too loose increase wear? (i'm not talking so loose it can jump a teeth or fall off the sprocket, but just looser than spec, say spec calls for 40mm of slack vs 45-50mm)
If it’s any help I always maintain mine on the centre measurement of manufacture's data, at the tightest point of the chain run. So for example if manufactures spec was 38 to 42 mm I would adjust to 40mm. I wouldn’t purposefully set it slacker than they recommend, as I like a nice tight drive chain with positive gear changes.
Too tight can lead to wear issues in the final drive, but more troublesome, failure of the out put shaft bearing or even bending of the output shaft itself. If in doubt, err on the loose side. Follow the manual for the bike. It states and shows the measurements being taken with the chain being held down. Other SSA are different. 996 was done on deflection, the later bikes are with chain at rest. Throw in everyone’s different ideas and you’ll end up with a multitude of different methods and most will be incorrect
I use the URM, The Uncle Rosco Method. Get kit on. Go to Garage. Stand beside bike. Push bike off stand. Wheel bike outside. Nod to Neighbour. Wave to wife. Toe chain with boot. Confirm chain still on. Get on bike and ride off.
Original Ducati chains are pretty crap. If I put my Multi on the main stand and rotate the back wheel the chain goes up and down quite a bit, I rotate until the tighter bit is at the bottom then adjust the chain with the measuring tool supplied. But then it’s quite slack on the other half of the chain. I complained at the first service but dealer said it’s within spec.
Final Drive Chain Maintenance Precautions https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2023/MC-10240311-0001.pdf
As a basic guide (on any bike) with the bike in gear I push forward against the transmission so the bottom run of the chain goes slack, hold the front brake and compress the rear suspension with my weight (or a fat friend's) until the swinging arm is in a horizontal position where the chain is at its fullest stretch. Then check the bottom run. It's singing like a guitar string, it's too tight. If it's got half an inch of slack, ride on and don't worry about it.
Had a recent annual service, where there is basically nothing to do. They adjusted the chain, which didnt need done and when I got home and checked it, it was uneven on the swing arm markers by a couple of mm. I have done 6000 miles on this bike and no tight spots. My last multi I changed the chain at 16000 which still looked in perfect condition, but the sprocket teeth were getting a bit thin. I follow the instructions in the owners manual, place it on the side stand and use the slider tool to measure
Chains wear unevenly, spin wheel round, measure at tightest spot. I used to adjust a 200ft chain on machinery, It can be a pain in the bum.
Your lucky mine has a long tight spot, a third of the chain is tighter than the rest. It’s got slightly better since new, but it’s now on 4700 miles and 3000 of those I rode it like I’d stolen it, around Spain and Portugal
i have to very much disagree with you. DID Z ring gold chains are about as good as it gets, every DID chain i owned has a tight spot and a loose spot, even when pretty much new... when people say " your chain is worn out when it has tight spots" i think that's the worse way to check for wear as they have them even when new.... best way to check for when the chain is done is to measure it. that's how ducati say's to do it. because a worn chain will have play between the pins... also i check side to side play, and how far i can pull it off the sprocket
Interestingly enough most of the chains, variation in tension I have encountered over the years from new is primarily down to inaccurate machining of the rear hub or rear sprocket, throwing it off centre. I’m sure because of the very fine tolerances necessary in the making of a chain, they are very consistent. Like you say DID X rings are as good as it gets, I use these all the time.
I've often suspected this. All my bikes run DID XVMX 525 chains but they seem to last longer and require less frequent adjustment on my Ducatis than they do on my KTM. KTM are well known for hub machining inaccuracies with brake discs leading to the groaning brake issue. My KTM is a twin spar swinging arm model and the wheel alignment marks on the spindle plates are miles out. When refitting the rear wheel I have to measure alignment using guide bars through the swinging arm and rear wheel spindles. The Ducatis are both single-siders so this issues does not arise. It could also be because the KTM has a much longer chain run and longer travel suspension so there will be more chain lash which could accelerate wear. Actually, I say all my bikes run the same spec DID chains. Those are what I've always fitted as replacements on the 1098 but the Diavel is on its original chain which is unmarked. An internet search says that Ducati's OE chains are their own brand. I doubt they make them in-house so I wonder if anyone knows who they're sourced from.
The OEM chain on my Multi V4S was DID, a cheapo version though, made to a price for a contract I’m sure. It didn’t stretch much in its 15,000km life but did corrode awfully and was changed for a ZVMX2 Gold chain.
