Had a fabulous 100 mile run out today on my ST2 with a couple of stops and a nice lunch. As the day progressed I was finding it increasingly difficult to find neutral. Twice the neutral light was on but when I released the clutch it was actually still in gear (2nd). From what I have read this is a frequent issue with Ducatis of all ages and models and the symptom gets worse when hot. I guess many of you have experienced this but just wondered if there are any tips or guidance for locating neutral? Cheers
One the ones I've had a problem with, I try and remember to select neutral as I'm coming to a stop, with the bike still moving...
It's interesting that a couple of you have cited this so will get it checked out. Also a good tip from someone else who has the issue, thanks.
My 916 was bad after I changed the clutch pack, probably reassembled plates in wrong order, likewise my 996 after repeated clutches in and out,
Would have thought chain would get slacker during a ride as metal expands? So if this was the cause it would ease during a long ride not get worse?
Isn't it strange how there can be so many variables aand nothing is crystal clear anymore? I looked at a You Tube video regarding Ducati chain adjustment and the first thing the guy said was to always make sure the bike is on the Side stand!! I then looked in the bike manual and it tells you to make sure the bike is on the centre stand!! The manual then details how to check and make adjustments to give a slack of 32mm. On the swing arm itself there is a decal showing where the centre of the swing arm is and it clearly states that the slack should be 30mm? OK 2mm is not great but why on earth should the manual that came with the bike differ to the decal instructions on the swinging arm? Nevertheless, I checked the slack and found it to be 30mm so happy enough that it's in tolerance.
I would try the simplest and cheapest thing first - change the clutch fluid. It’s often overlooked and absorbs moisture as it ages. Doesn’t take long to do and if it doesn’t make any difference all you have lost is £2 of fluid.
I have only done 200 miles since £1500 service in December and a new slave cylinder was fitted. There are no obvious signs of leaks but am having some new tyres fitted soon so will ask for a visual health check. I was told at the service that dry clutch is still good for circa 6000 miles.
All the above: bleeding, new fluid, slave or master cylinder failing but also, if it's noticeably worse when hot, have you checked to see if the release bearing in the pressure plate is good? Because if it seizes or even gets tight and the pushrod spins, it will get heat up the fluid in the slave cylinder which won't help until, it destroys the slave completely. Another possibility is too thick a clutch pack not allowing for enough plate separation but if it was OK before then you can discount that because it'll only get thinner as it wears, clutch could be gunged up with dust/crap though.
It would be a very brave man that might suggest that to Alf at Alf's in Worthing. He is meticulous about his work which is why he''s a little expensive. Nevertheless these are all good points being made so I will see what happens over the next couple of days and revert.
Thinking about the simple things, I've just had a thought (as one does) that yesterday was the first time I rode with my new Ducati short style boots and perhaps it was just a lack of feel that was the problem!
Was on a track day with Alf's side kick ( ops manager possibly), lent him some brake pads for his Kawasaki, returned immediately on return to UK, seem like good folk, small world
Difficulty in finding neutral on an old bevel is called character and rather than remembering to slip it into neutral before you come to a stop it becomes ingrained....
