Good to know. I did look into modifying the battery tray and fitting a heavier-cranking lead acid, but like everything else on the SF the battery compartment is a tight fit with zero scope for enlargement. Mine's had engine work done as well and runs higher compression than stock. I suspect that's why the sprag is goosed. As plug and play mosfet units are readily available and Skyrich make a drop-in replacement lithium battery it didn't seem worth trying to faff about. Might as welljust bite the bullet, and go lithium at the same time the sprag gets replaced.
yes and one of the relays . i tried that with the fuel tank disconnected and could here something else as well. obviously i can hear the fuel pump as well,when connected.
i checked the battery when the bike was running and it was a varying from 13.79 to 13.84. today i soldered the 3 wires between the reg/rec and the stator , rather than using connectors and fitted another battery from my 1260. the bike will now start while its hot, so the next thing i will check is the reading on the 1260 battery while its running and compair both. the bike is still a pain to start whilst cold but its always been like that.
Just an “outsider” myself Hope to be getting an XDiavel next month However imho measuring battery voltage either engine running or not running won’t really tell you how “healthy” a battery is You really need to measure battery voltage when cranking engine, for a well charged battery it shouldn’t drop below 10v (worst case) If it’s below 10v or close to 10v, I would replace it
the battery from my multi 1260 while the bike is running is reading 13.65 to 13.72 , so both batteries seem to be in good condition. double checked the bike would start when the engine is hot and it started sitting at 80 on the dash. looks like the reg/rec did not like connecters being used,rather than the wires being soldered.
both batteries are in good condition but when its cranking they are reading just about 10v. the bike for 11 years has always been a poor starter, so something must be draining the voltage when cranking. the bike was firing up better after i fitted leads from exact start and a lithium battery. but that came to an end when it cooked some of the parts with the rec/rec not being compatible with a lithium battery.
I would check cables Check terminations you should be able to spot issues as heat will be generated by bad connections, discoloured terminals/isulation The other possibility is the starter motor, i dont know how accessible/inaccessible this is If you could obtain information about current draw of the starter, it’s possible to check it using current clamps
If you do end up doing the sprag....i was chatting with Rich at Louigi moto....theres a nice very cheap upgrade that he advised me to do which i did on mine (Hypermotard 1100 evo sp) was to remove the springs that hold the sprag bearings in and replace with a rubber band....the part is from another model (i think some part of a 999) but apparrently it less prone to going baggy than the OEM spring. Just for the record i did mine myself...never done one before but it wasnt hard but i did have to borrow a torque wrench that went up that high (230Nm from memory as it was a few years back that i did it)
When was the TPS last checked? If it’s hot it won’t go into a cold map, the cold map might have been compensating for a TPS that’s out so is only an issue when hot. Early bikes had an issue that they would stall when hot and it was to do with TPS I seem to remember. One of the many issues as the 1098 was a little ‘buggy’ at first like the 1199 was. the other thing I’m wondering is if you have a blocked fuel breather and it’s pressurising the tank, have you checked this? the last thing would be to disconnect the battery, then I would personally re-seat the fuel ECU in its connectors, it’s not likely this is an issue but it’s down near the exhaust and battery, so generally re-seating them can insure no moisture has built up and when hot causing issues
i have been told more than once from the guy that used to dyno my bikes not to alter the TPS or it will interfere with the set-up on the bike/power commander. but you might be on to something with the blocked fuel breather. in the past i have heard a strange sound coming from the fuel tank. i will check that out tomorrow along with other suggestions. when you say re-seat the fuel ecu,do you mean the main ecu ?
both fuel breathers were blocked solid and the rubber breather nozzle is missing as well . i drained the fuel tank and disconnected the fuel pump . the fuel filter looks in good condition so i will order a new breather nozzle.
If you have the fuel pump out then for the small cost I would replace the fuel filter You can't tell how good it is just by looking at it
More disclosure! Is there is now a Power Commander involved? I would be disconnecting that (rather than loading a zero map).
the power commander has been on it for 5 years with the full race exhaust and has been dyno-ed. any time i have been out recently the bike is running well. thats why i do not want the TPS altered. the issue is the stopping and starting bit
No mention of it in your first post though. How does it being fitted for 5 years be common knowledge to anyone on the forum. It is a piggy back device that is known to give problems, particularly the older it gets (like 5 years).
