if i remove the power commander what would need to be done to ensure the full race system would not damage the bike and make sure it would run ok. obviously there is a race ECU fitted and the bike was dyno-ed and mapped.
If the fuelling maps were changed after fitting the DP race ECU and the power commander then, IMO, it’s best to revert to the standard DP race ECU map once the power commander is removed. The fact it won’t start when at 70c or above indicates, IME, and as suggested in Chris’s chaptgpt response above, an issue with a sensor. However, that can only be verified by connecting the ECU to diagnostics and looking at various parameters when it’s at that temp, both running and when it won’t restart. However, the PC is another layer of complexity on top of everything else and which, ideally, should be removed from the equation in order to break the diagnosis down into steps without having something else interfering with signals received by the ECU. If it were with me, I’d first check the parameters for all the sensors before removing the PC. It may the obvious culprit appears immediately. If it doesn’t then I’d remove the PC, reconnect the points in the loom it links into and check the parameters again. I once wasted a lot of time on a Panigale 1199 trying to find a running issue fault which disappeared once I removed the PC. The bike was handed back to him running beautifully and the PC was in a separate box.
to sumirise the issues = i did say on post 23 that the problem with the engine not starting while hot has now been fixed. so hopefully that has also eliminated a problem with the sprag clutch. the bike still cuts out sometimes when i arrive back home after doing 20 miles, this might be down to the fact it needs re-shimmed. photo attached post 9. the long term issue with the bike not starting when cold has got worse especially after removing a lithium battery that should not have been fitted. even when the engine is hot it still needs a twist of the throttle to fire up. the tank is off at the moment and i have ordered a new fuel filter. as suggested by chrisw i will have to test the crank sensor. just about to disconnect the battery and check all the wiring connected to the battery,ECU and earths. the two vents in the fuel tank were blocked so this did not help matters and the round rubber gasket on the underside of the cap is missing. once i have checked all these things i will probably get the shims done and lastly disconnect the power commander for good and get the TPS reset. i do remember strange noises coming from the fuel tank so the blockages were causing that issue.
Makes me laugh how everybody is so obsessed with voltage and never check the CCA on a battery? Poor starting from hot can be fuel vaporisation or something seizing up with heat? Hope you got it sorted out Raywynn.
I know . He’d also thrown the complete Ducabike catalogue at it, mostly in anodized gold . If Versace made bikes this would have been it. I’ll see if I can find a photo
My 1098 had about 28k miles on it when it finally refused to start from cold I had diagnostics and so I started with the cheap stuff (new plugs, coil/ injector relay, battery and cps.) Nothing worked. Tried jumping it from the car and that didn't work. If i remember correctly it was showing low voltage to the coils and injectors. Anyway long story short I fitted a new sprag. After that everything was fine
