999 Front Wheel Removal

Discussion in '749 / 999' started by Wasted Time Lord, Apr 2, 2026.

  1. I gave the gaps half-hearted taps with a chisel, but not too hard, because it's low to the ground and I could barely see what I was doing. I'll lay on the ground and try again.

    (I thought of getting the Sky Lift, until I saw the price)

    Yes, I've been sort of thinking of dropping the wheel out with the forks, idly at the back of my mind. I have replacement wheels. New forks, spindles. I'd prefer to reuse the discs though. So, yes, remove the forks as you suggest, but no hurry to remove the spindle. The rim will need sending away for straightening anyway.

    And I've wondered about getting heat to it - I've got the little blowtorch I got for doing the heatshrink when I removed the datatool alarm. I wasn't entirely sure where to play it though, or that anywhere would get hot enough with so much metal around to dissipate it.
     
    #21 Wasted Time Lord, Apr 6, 2026 at 7:19 PM
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2026 at 7:46 PM
  2. Ok, thanks to all. I just got it out!

    Last time I was here I tried the socket extension as drift method as suggested by @Android853sp. That was the ~4" extension, two different diameters of alley drift, and a claw hammer (the Thor got dumped a while back, lump hammer even longer and I've no more idea what happened to my ball pein than I have my verniers).

    I managed to move it about 5mm. I went home thinking I'd be dropping the front end of as a unit. Whether I'd make a puller was still up in the air as the new axle still hasn't arrived.

    I got home and ordered a 24oz ball pein, which arrived today. It was still a hell of a job, but immediately obviously a big improvement.

    It was a bastard until I got it through the first bearing; then I was able to pull it through with a steel rod through the other end of the axle. A T bar, I suppose.
     
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  3. Once out, was there anything obvious that could have suggested why it was so difficult? I found it was necessary to support the wheel under my foot while I wiggled it out. It was quite fiddly.
     
  4. My foot isn't that big! It's on the Abba stand with front wheel lifting add-on.

    IMG_20260409_162157855.jpg
    Not that that shows it.

    I shoved my electrical toolbox (that I held the Termi up with when I changed the subframe), though it wouldn't go under fully. Once the axle was through the LH bearing I twisted it with the steel rod through the other end and could do that one handed while I held the wheel with the other.

    Before I got that far I was able to turn it but not extract it, and the spacer @Nasher mentioned turned with it. But once through that it was no easier until through the bearing also.

    I only hit my thumb once. I'm well impressed with my thumb, which doesn't hurt at all now!

    Presumably, with bent forks, that preloaded the axle - but, again, it didn't suddenly ease up once through the LH fork lower.
     
  5. Plenty of grease on the spindle on reassembly, but not on the threads.
     
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  6. I appreciate that wheels can be repaired but recall reading somewhere that alloys should be X-rayed once damaged because of possible hidden fractures? Would you know if this is part of the repair deal?
     
  7. On a car alloy I wouldn't be too bothered because there are 4 of them but on a bike I would want to know for certain that the overall integrity is sound.
     
  8. Yeah, I sure ain't letting it go like that again!

    Besides new forks and axle, I think I'll get new bearings, too.
     
  9. Personally I would hope so! Anything less would be like that curious American practice of regrooving tyres.
     
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