748 Won't Rev Up

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Andrew46, Jun 20, 2026 at 2:05 PM.

  1. A friend, it really is it's not me, has completely stripped his 748 engine, and replaced seals etc. He put it all back together but had got something wrong in the gearbox, so he bought a job of 748, 9** heads, block, gearboxes, he put a different gearbox on his original engine (I think). Now back in the bike, it starts but as soon as you move the throttle it stops, moving the throttle really slowly you can just about get it to 3000 revs and then instantly stops. He has checked TPS and says it reading what it should.
    Any ideas ??
     
  2. Sounds ECU-ish to me.

    But I’m a luddite and very little help - hopefully someone will be along to help soon!
     
  3. So he stripped and rebuild his engine, got it wrong and though, f..CK it, I chuck another engine in it? Or at least a bottom end/gearbox) Have I understood that correctly? Sounds like a recipe for disaster and it doesn't instill confidence when he says the tps is set correct. If we assume he's correct with the tps, are the belts timed up correct. One tooth out and it may well just about start and do what you describe. Perhaps he could tell us what the tps reads when the throttle is completely shut and/or how he's set it? Did he use some kind of diag software to set it, did he read the voltage of the ECU pin or did he just use a resistance reading?
     
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  4. Fuel pressure?
     
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  5. Leaking fuel pipe inside the tank?
     
  6. I've had similar symptoms with this.
     
  7. I popped and saw him again, basically the only things he using from "his" engine are the heads. All pipes are recent in the tank, and it ran perfectly the original engine before he decided to take it all apart, so assume the tank part is ok. I've been there when he's run it and it cuts out instantly, no missing or anything, it's like hitting the kill switch.
    Not sure what readings he has on the TPS, but he says they are what they should be, I assume it is just using resistance with a multimeter as I know he doesn't have a diag.
    If the crank sensor wasn't correct could that do it? He's used the original casing that has the sensor, do they have to be set up to make sure the distance between the sensor end and the sprocket/ cog are correct, I assume fairly close.
    I did question his sense when he first said about taking apart a perfectly good engine, hindsight and all that!
     
  8. Depending on how he’s been checking the TPS, it’d be worth checking the wiring connector onto the TPS itself and also the MIL connector on the side of the throttle bodies
     
  9. could be several culprits that fit this bill, but symptoms are very close to a ruptured pressurized fuel line within tank (as said). Although "impervious to fuel" by description, said fuel lines still have a life-cycle. People often use the the term "submersible" here incorrectly - submersible in what - water?
     
  10. Thanks, I'll speak to him tomorrow and get him to do that.
     
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  11. I know he did get the submersible in petrol type, but it came from the internet who knows what was actually sent
     
  12. The hose I have has "submersible fuel hose" printed on it, I suggest you direct your grievance to Dayco.
     
  13. No thanks :joy:
     
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  14. One step at a time, a process of illumination. Instead of diving in deep and change everything. Procedure of the original fault would be interesting if you could ask your , friend?
     
    #14 Marcoduc, Jun 21, 2026 at 1:55 PM
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2026 at 2:00 PM
  15. E10 rated hose would be better.
     
  16. There was no original fault, he seems to have created one with his Frankenstein's monster engine marriage.
     
  17. You say that he bought a load of 748/916 bits
    Then you say he has only used the heads from his original engine.
    So what has he put his 748 heads on?

    Has he put them on a 916 ?
    What throttle bodies did he use.
    I doubt the collective forum will solve this one without getting hands on
     
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