Hey all, i know this could be a whole can of worms opening but just curious i've had my bike do about 120-130 miles to the tank which seemed about decent on a 14 litre tank, for last month or so it's been doing about only about 60 miles till the light... seems really low... I've figured it out to be 100 km (60 miles) on 12 Litres... that seems not right, anyone else seeing this? only thing i've done some time ago, but i don't recall it being about the same time was change from stock to dp ecu... could this be the cause?? Thanks in advance.
Never had anything as miserable as 100km out of mine, so I would definitely suspect that something isn't right. As with you, generally it's between 170 to 200 km out of a tank till the fuel light comes on.
the light is fine as after 60 miles it takes about 12 litres (just after light is on), so it actually must be burning that much fuel... only odd thing about how it runs is that it, when cold has a hard time idling.. stalls when standing still unless warmed up... Im going to replace the ECU back for the stock one and see if it makes a difference. what else could it be?
Ok sounds like you have a similar problem. What is interesting to me is that I used to do 120 miles on the same bike... I doubt it's leaking I would see or smell it... It has to be using it up.. I'll see if I can get the ecu changed to factory.. I almost doubt there is any noticeable power change with it on see how it goes and let you know.
I don't think we ever found out what the answer was, which is a pity. Can't imagine bike still has the same problem.
i've put the stock ecu back in this afternoon. going to work tomorrow I will see how it behaves and as i just filled op will see how it does.
Did you reset the TPS after the performance ECU swap? Without it, the ECU could be fuelling anywhere other than right. Would also help explain the idling. Is the ECU a used one? If so, the ECU could be carrying an excessive fuel trim from its previous install. They're not plug n play. They need setting up. One last consideration is the ambient temp. Whole it's cold, the motor could be getting over cooled. What's the motor temp running to? If it's not getting above 70 then there's extra fuel being fed in.
Hi, I did not reset the TPS, havent had the chance to, so I did guess that it could be something related to that, however the DP ECU i had in it was a new one that came with the termis i have on my bike, as far as I understand it's not perfect but should be setup to be tunned to those pipes, thus technically i should be able to just plug n play (but probably should reset the TPS just in case). The temperature on the old stock ECU and on the DP one with normal casual or heavy riding always sits spot on between 68-72 C in traffic in 1st gear it goes up, normally around 90 or so, but during the summer i've had it up to about 115 or 120 a couple times, but the bike seemed to take it fine (the fans seem to only kick in at around 115 or so anyways... so I guess it's normal). I have as mentioned above, replaced the ECU with the stock one again, just rode it in to work this morning, but obviously that's not long enough to see if much changed. I will have to run the whole tank on it to see if the fuel usage goes back up. However so far i can see it didn't fix the stalling issue, had it stall at a red light a couple times this morning, thus again i had to ensure to keep in on the throttle a little whenever idling. I find that if it were to idle at 1k or just a little bit above, then no problem would not stall, but it idles just a bit below 1k, and you can hear it just being too slow and choking. Almost seams like an idle adjustment would fix the issue. the only thing I've noticed so far is that the bike on low RPMs (around 2-3k in 1st gear) seems to jitter a bit more than it did with the DP ecu, seems it does not run as smooth around there, where with the dp ecu it used to be quite smooth down to about 2k, below that was crap as expected. any comments? any chance that due to disconnecting the stock ECU it would lose it's memory and no longer have the right TPS on it or have the map that was on it originally messed up? I'll ride it through the tank and see if the fuel consumption improves and update the post. Seems a bit scary that having the wrong TPS or map a bit off could double your fuel consumption though... I have had it backfire the odd time when downshifting from 2nd to 1st so it could have been running rich.. we will see.
Quick question on a similar note. To ensure fueling is set up properly a duno run is necessary correct? Seems these run about £400 - 500 ... bit more than I wanted to spend... If I'm correct, anyone know a good place for this near reading, UK, preferably what I would call 'cost effective'?
100 miles and I its not long before the fuel light comes on for me too. Performance Termis/filters etc etc and tps set to stop the stalling. Mates use me as the bench mark for fuel stops LOL
I just came to an interesting realization. I have changed out the spark plugs for new ones about 2 weeks back. the old plugs looked quite 'new' very clean, i looked at them as well to check for fueling issues as I knew you could see it from here, the plugs both looked alike, instigating both cylinders are working at the same fueling, they were both orange/brown as you would expect when everything is working fine, they were not black, instigating too much fuel going in, and they were not white instigating too much air. This is interesting as I guess the engine must have not been getting too much fuel on general, maybe at certain RPMS as checking the plugs just gives you a general idea, but overall they looked good. So far with the new (stock) ECU, bike seems to be running nicer at higher RPMs. I feel like it has more power, maybe fueling is better? But at idle i think it's worse, seems that unless i have it on throttle a little all the time it will just die, idles a good needle width below 1k rpm (seems very low). is it possible to have the TPS reset myself? just a case of getting the right cable off ebay i presume and connecting to my laptop? (just as a precaution)
Ok.. something is messed up with my bike ( I'm no mechanic ... Riding back today after putting the old ecu back in as posted before.. The back light turned off for a good 10 seconds while riding on the clock. Where it normally tells me the battery voltage it said HI then when got home noticed the low beam is off, high beam works but low beam does not.. maybe the bulb went? And weirdly now the bat indicator as always was showing low about 11v or so now says about 14.5 when riding and about 12.9 when bike off...???
I'm worried that something is messed up and I have no clue what and it will lead to bigger problems... I guess last resort anyone know a good ducati knowledgeable and not ridiculously expensive mechanic around berkshire?
I've done a couple bits, replaced the regulator / rectifier (sorted some electrical issues), cleaned my front brake callipers as I found they were dragging slightly instead of unceasing after braking. I'll run a full tank and see if this helped any. I did also change the front and rear sprocket from stock 15/36 to 14/37, will see if this affected it much.
