I have a streetfighter 1098 2010, having just serviced it through the winter, the CD workshop manual purchased from e-bay specifies front brembo brake bleed nipple tightening torque as 23 N\m, this is surely an error !. Can anyone give the correct tightening torque for the front bleed nipples. The rear specifies 14N\m so I am assuming the front should be around 12N\m ? thanks
I seriously wonder why anyone would want to torque set a bleed nipple.........just tighten it so it doesn't leak. AL
i'm sure you are right waltby, plus I would never use a torque wrench for such a small fixing anyway as the margin for error is much greater. Anywhere I have ever worked didn't specify torque below 20 lb ft.
Whilst I agree with nipping it up (just like the clutch spring cap bolts) and maybe also using a small bead of thread sealer around the top of the thread, Ducati do specify a torque setting in their factory manuals for just about every fixing or screw thread on the bike. They go right down to 1 Nm (0.73ftlbs) on some screws and include one for the oil filter 11Nm with an oiled gasket (which is probably way too high). Those of you that remember M6 cap screws on jap bikes engine cases from long ago may remember crankcase cover screws that often broke or stripped due to corrosion or someone doing them up far too tight. They were typically 6mm threads with only 12-14ft lbs torque specified. The same screws on the crankcases of the 748 engine are M8 x 1.25 and Ducati specify a two stage tightening to only 25Nm (18.4ft lbs), this is important where the two faces are to be oil tight and the case is alloy. The 748 front brake bleed nipple is specified as a M6 x 1 with a torque setting of 12Nm (8.85ftlbs). If you really want to use a torque setting then make sure you get a small (up to 20nm) torque wrench with 1/4" or 3/8 socket drive and under no circumstances use a 1/2" drive cheap one which goes up to something like 150Nm as the acuracy at the low end is "miles out." Once you get a feel with a small combination or ring spanner - nipping it up until it takes pressure is so much easier however.
the problem with trying to obtain consistently correct torque figures at such low levels is not only because of the increased sensitivity required for the torque wrench (the drive size is not important - it's down to the quality of the machine which means they are typically £100 upward) but because the effects of varying thread interlocking surface area, the ability of the materials used to creating friction and most commonly overlooked i.e. whether the parts are to be assembled dry or lubricated, become far more critical. When any truly safety-related fasteners are to be torque up accurately, dry or lubricated is always specified as the figures are different. In the case of a bleed nipple it instantly becomes a 'grey area' from this point of view as it will often have fluid on the threads during normal use.
Although I have owned a torque wrench (which someone nicked), I have also owned loads of cars and bikes.........IIRC I have only ever used a torque wrench once on any of my vehicles or those belonging to mates etc......I don't recall any failures from not using a torque wrench. Maybe I gained a skill from tuning drumheads from a young age. AL
Hmmm interesting. First time on this site. Waltby asks a simple question & gets no answer to his question but a lot of answers of questionable value. Hmmm
Not seen any suggestions or answers from you. :tongue: Most people just nip it up. Thats all that is needed.
You can't really apply a bolt torque setting to a bleed nipple...........they are doing two entirely different jobs. IE......There is generally no load on the end of the bolt and it is in tension, whereas there is a load on the end of a bleed nipple, which is under compression.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the offer, but I dont have enough space for any more Christmas cards. And I like your continuation of answers/comments of "questionable value".
