This may be a feeling I get as I'm used to high revving 600cc Jap I4's but the 996 seems very lazy to me. It's running at less than 4000rpm at 70 which is great for mpg but I don't need such a massive potential top speed for the road. I've been reading (and searching on here to no avail) and a few places suggest a 43t rear sprocket, I can't remember if the standard one is 36 or 38, but either way that seems like a massive jump as I'm used to a +2 being normal. What do people on here do, a +2 as seems normal or the potential +7?
The usual method is to go down 1 on the front to 14t, although this is not universal due to the debate on tighter chain radius seen with the smaller sprocket. This will mean that you'll not need extra links in the chain, however the same effect can be gained by going up 3 teeth on the rear, but you will probably need a longer chain to do this
Thank you for replying. I'm wary of the 14t front for the reasons you state. +3 on the rear sounds good to me, I'll look in to getting that done this year. Thanks again
I dropped 1 tooth on the front on mine, so im running a 14T and i found it made a big difference. Ive not had any problem with the chain. I kept the standard length change but replaced it with a DID extreme one, along with a quick release rear sprocket carrier, so if i want to change up the rear sprocket afterwards I can easily. The stock gearing on the 996 is ridiculous, when im out on it very often id suddenly realise what I thought was 6th gear was actually 3rd or 4th and id been cruising at 80mph for ages iin 4th gear. Im sure I read somewhere its geared for well over 200mph but the bike only has enough power to hit 150/160. Personally I do find the 996 a "lazy" bike as you describe. Ive several motorbikes, but the main 2 I use atm are a 1999 R1 and my 2000 996. I find there is no comparison between them. The R1 feels half the weight of the 996, both on the road and just wheeling it about on the drive. The R1 turns in twice as quick on the bends - I can also change line quickly mid corner if needbe and it feels like its twice as fast on acceleration as well as being able to stop quicker. I find when im out on the R1 i end up riding much faster & harder, whereas when im on the 996 i tend to poodle about on it as it seems to lend itself more to that riding style. Setting up the suspension better seems to have helped with the 996s handling, although it still doesnt turn in very quickly and you can feel its weight. I might play with the headstock angle a bit more and/or raise the back height a little more to see if that helps. EBC HH pads have helped a bit with the stopping although they are still not a patch on the R1s. Im hoping to upgrade to P4 calipers and see if that helps. Dropping the 1 tooth on the front certainly helped a lot, and made the bike feel more zippy although I still find I dont really need 5th & 6th gear, so I think i`ll up the teeth on the back sprocket a bit more to see if that helps.
you stock gearing is 15/36... the 748 ran 14/38 with the same chain without any problems. Same wheels, swingarm etc... You can run that gearing with no problem and it works very well
+1 on -1 Cheaper mod than changing the rear too. My gixer was 2 down front, 3 up rear and was f*cking madness until I realised. Its possible to go far
To see what happens at each sprocket combination http://www.gearingcommander.com/ Recommended sprocket combinations
Make sure you reset ride height too as a tooth difference will change it and it will feel different to ride
Paul I don't understand why the ride height will change if there is a change in how many teeth are on the sprocket (assuming that the distance between the front and rear shafts remains the same) Can you explain please?
The wheel will be moved forward or backwards to meet the change in sprocket, and as its on an eccentric it lifts or lowers the rear.
Got it. I was making an assumption that the distance between the front and rear shafts was going to remain the same. I don't have an eccentric on my 749s so hadn't thought about that. Cheers for explaining.
Yep, on yours you'd have to think about chain length to keep the wheelbase the same. Tbh not sure how that is affected on a 9** as its a bit fine detail for this old hammer and gaffer tape mechanic
Recently changed my chain and sprockets, went up to 42R, left the front at 14, cut the new chain to suit and got the rear axle approx in the centre of the available adjuster, didn't think of the wheelbase issue at the time. Love the change it makes though, smoother at low speed, faster acceleration, top speed is mainly a hypothetical issue anyway although it still will pull to limiter in top!
Hi I put a 14t on my first 996 with no problems seemed a good compromise. But if you do keep an eye on your chain tension and ride height because I found a surprise on my current 996. I can't definitely say it was because of poor adjustment but the chain had eaten the swingarm pivot.
I've no idea how long it was happening for. I bought the bike early last year ride it home went out once on it then stripped it for a full rebuild. I only noticed once I'd removed the swingarm. The eccentric was at the 6 o'clock position when stripped but I suspect it wasn't always. Sorry to hijack the thread!
