I've got it in the hole at the base of the light shell, with the horn bracket located in parallel cutouts but it seems to press the wiring up a lot. I wondered whether I was doing the right thing, but will persevere following your help. It's a right bugger when all you have is a box of bits, hopefully enough nuts and bolts, and a parts diagram to work from! Thanks again For your help.
Yes they can be awkward, the correct connections are angled and have flat spade terminals, you need to put the terminals on, put the horn in place and then let the wires trail out through the narrow rim edge where the horn sits inside. Check the horn before and after you fit the top fairing on as once I didn't and couldn't figure out immediately why the horn didn't work, only to find the fairing was pressing against the centre part that vibrates and stopping the horn vibrating in an out.
It looks as If the last owner isn't coming up with the crank position sensor he said he'd post. It appears there are two types - how do I tell which I have? I suspect it's the earlier three pin, two hole one which looks like it'd fit the vacant space... Still no sign of the V5-I'm working on the DVLA .
But on the plus side: belts changed (how do you do that without 3 hands), alternator cover, gearchange oil seal and water pump cover refitted. Front light unit pretty well populated and fitted. Things are coming together.
It will be the two bolt type, only later models like the 748R had the single bolt type. Any two bolt type should work but you should check the sensor air gap on fitting it to make sure it picks up properly, you will need shims if you need to adjust it out.
OK, pictures, not good though. Crank position sensor received and fitted, on the final lap now. Fluids and filters . Checked the oil screen - no nasty stuff there Here goes with the oil filter Not a good sign-the filter tool and strap won't budge it, the chain won't fit in the gap, and I resorted to the chisel! Anyone got any good ideas how to get out of this!? I'm considering grinding down a socket to engage with the holes in the middle of the filter... Stud extractor won't work-middle's too soft. Not good.
Yay! Filter now out and replaced. I still have the skin on my knuckles but also higher blood pressure to shift the thing! Now awaiting tank seals (fuel pipes and filter panel ) then see if it starts.
Everything fitted together-I had to try twice with the tank seal as I made a mess of the first one! Held my breath, cranked it a while and she burst into (very loud) life. Phew Unfortunately, after a short while, the engine stopped and won't fire up again. I can't hear the fuel pump whine as I did when it started, and the plugs are dry. I suspect the offside relay under the seat - would I be right?
I've checked both fuses under the seat, they are OK. When it started, I could hear the fuel pump - now I can't. The near side relay clicks, the offside one does sometimes, then clicks again about a second later. I tried putting 12V across pins 85&86 but nothing changed on the other pins (and no relay click)
When this happened to me it was the single pump fuse under the seat, it looked good but was in fact damaged. Have you checked all the fuses and relays for continuity? If you have no power at all then it could be the main fuse as suggested, if you have oil and neutral lights then the main fuse should be OK.
I checked the pump in situ with a direct 12V feed and it worked fine; I then checked the voltage into and out of the relay-12V. So I swapped the relays-still no difference-engine churned over but no pump whine and no start. So it must be the wiring: checked the continuity from the relay to pump, including the connector-fine!? Confused now-relay clicks, outputs 12V to pump... Cured it with a replacement relay-the old one wasn't putting enough current through when connected. All hunky dory now! And I have a spare relay under the seat just in case. Last thing before I fit the fairing panels to show her off-the front cam cover is on the wrong way round, so the V-piece lugs are behind the mounts for the oil cooler! Bu@@er! Oh yes, the brake light is permanently on so that's to diagnose. Getting there ...
Finished! (I hope) Rolled her out today to take her for a sneaky blast as a pre-MOT check. It's a different kind of ride to my Multistrada 1200! Would anyone like to check it's "right" - i.e. correct for a '97 SPS? (Bearing in mind what a mess it was when I first got it) PS the awful yellow screen is going as soon as I can get the correct size allen key to undo the well nuts.
There are two things depending on how original you are trying to make it. The original exhausts did not have Termignoni stickers on them and your ones look like later model ones as the metal looks different in the photos, they were just plain. The heelguards and heat shield are carbon and the originals weren't. If you are not after a totally original look then it all seems good from the photos. There are a few other minor points but it looks like a good example of a fairly original bike.
Aaahhh. I liked those! Rear brake master cylinder bracket fractured as I took it for its MOT today! Obvious sign of older break which had finally failed when sufficient pressure applied for the test (I don't use the back brake much)
