Going to put one of these on tomorrow, but have a query regarding the O-ring from the original unit. The Oberon unit has a ridge, rather than the O-ring slot from the OE. In short, do I attempt to refit the O-ring into the crankcase or do I leave it out? Any tips from those that have already done one are much appreciated?
I can't lay my hands on the copy of the fitting instructions I had right now but I'm sure they stated to check that the 'O' ring isn't displaced and if so to reseat it in the crankcase.
Thanks both, the instructions do mention "a small rubber gaiter", which needs to be refitted and I will assume is this O-ring?
Well, that went well - wish I had done this mod before, the clutch is so light and smooth (good for me as I have carpal tunnel, tennis elbow and rotor cuff problems, all in my left arm) and my clonking gearbox feels much nicer now. Left the O-ring in as there is no slot for it, but that area is so full of road/chain crud, it needs some protection and it squashes down no problem. Really should have gone black or grey as the "red" doesn't really match the bike, but I can overlook that for the benefits it offers. Seriously, if you are unhappy with your clutch action, try this mod, well worth £100. Edit: Just spotted my side stand switch, wire routing error and rectified it, before any of the detail Police latch on
It is on the rear paddock stand in the photo - it's right on the gauge when on the side stand in Urban/Solo, but as you say, it looks fit to snap!
Your wiring is askew man and that counter-shaft sprocket is still plastic. Get cracking old son. This will never do.
Just for reference my 2013 original slave did not have an O'ring . It had a plastic anti rotation part that keyed into the body of the slave and the push rod, of which is machined into the replacement Oberon unit. So old one off new one on, comes pre-greased so fits straight on as is out of the box.
Just done a 1k mile trip to Normandy last weekend and was shocked to find that the new clutch fluid I put in (Putoline Dot4) when I fitted the Oberon, turned from clear to soot black in about 300 miles. It was scorching hot on the Friday and then torrentially wet on the Saturday, so wondered if that caused it, but the same fluid I put in the rear brake stayed clear? Bit confused, thinking I have done something wrong - I know it goes dark over time, but this was virtually overnight? Cap is on tight, no leaks etc?
Mine has gone dark, tbh the slave cylinder not only has to work had but it's attached to the engine so soaks up heat and the pipe runs up past the engine to the bars. I would just change it regularly as it holds so little fluid.
Cheers, I think next time I will flush it all through again with some higher temperature stuff and see if that is better, although TBH the clutch works fine anyway, so will wait a while?
I do wonder whether the fluid goes dark or even black due to contaminates from the rubber pipes and brake hose liners......I doubt that brake fluid would go so dark otherwise? Coincidence.......just seen this on the Dutch Multistrada Owners Facebook page....
