Anyone else had their 749/999 running like this?:- Tickover is pretty lumpy, sometimes cuts out when coming to a stop (and smells a bit rich/petrol), splutters when pulling away in 1st and then runs like a dream through all the gears?! I was wondering if it's the TPS? Or just need the fuelling setting up again? Never had TPS problems before.
I do ride it fast until those damn T junctions and roundabouts get in the way!! I have had coil problems before and it seems to be fine after I pull away... Normally the 'judder' continues through the gears when I've had that. Maybe I'll swap them around with a spare I have... Just wondered what the TPS symptoms were....
That sounds normal. When it cuts out does it almost quitely fart as if it failed to ignite that stroke? Is it an S or R model by any chance? Pre 2005 revision? are you running a revised fuel map? PC3? Exhaust system? did it only change recently, ie after fitting a new exhaust? Could be TPS, always best get this done occasionally. Could be coil pack failure if its the pre 2005 model year. If its an S or R, then you learn to expect this as the valve overlap doesnt help tick over. I find that its bearable now and heres my solution. Run 95 octaine fuel for better low speed running. Make sure your clutch when fully pulled in, totally disengages. Any clutch drag will make it worse. I run the full Ti system on mine, and have worked on my PC3 map so that it smell less rich at tick over. On S and R's the best way to fully cure it is by changing the valve timing or so im told. Not something I want to try!
Hi mate, it's an 2003 'S' model and I've had it 5 years... Did have a PC3 a few years ago but ditched it when it lost its marbles. It's got an assemetric Termi on and my mechanic was able to set it up previously so it ran better than it did with a non dyno'd map off the website. Hence I left it and it's been fine for the last few years. I've had all the trials and tribulations before re coils etc so may look there first. It has got wet a fair bit this year!However I was a bit confused by it just being when I pull away and stop. Interesting on your opinions re the valves though. It is due a valve service next time but feels more electrical. Can the coils be tested with a multimeter?
I would whip the plugs out and take a look at them. Give them a good clean and gap tehm correctly. If they are the Iridium variety the gap needs to be larger than what it says in the manual. I might be tempted to pop a set of Denso Iridium plugs in, if they are getting on a bit. Also, run that tank of fuel down and put some fresh shell/bp fuel in. Do you find it if you start it up from cold, let it idle to warm up, that it cuts when it hits a specific temp every time?
Need to grind the stupid wrench down before I can check plugs (no not the GF).... The Tickover does get more lumpy once warm.
TPS set up, mine has played up at idle/low revs pulling away at lights before and TPS reset sorted it.
Sounds exactly the same as mine was a few weeks back, and it was cured by new plugs. I've got the Iridium ones fitted now, but hadn't heard about having a bigger gap. I still think that mine (2003 S) could be a little better, but the new plugs stopped it from cutting out at junctions, and smoothed out the running.
Peo!! Very easy job to initially remove and check the coil packs on both cylinders to eliminate them from the equation. They do tend to trap water and can cause the symptoms you are having. Undo the 8mm retaining nut on the coil-pack and pull them off the plug, then untwist the bottom section and clean and remove any water( watch out you don't loose the spring). If you don't have a compressed air line to blow out any trapped water in the plug recess, use a coffee stirrer wooden stick or similar to push a piece of rag into the recess with the plugs still in situ. The coil packs can be checked with a multi meter, I think it should be in the region 105 ohms ( but don't quote me on that)
Well had a ride out tonight and basically broke down... Lucky for me I put a spare coil pack in the fairing tool pack before the TT earlier this year! Swopped the horizontal coil over and it runs much better. I still intend to get the tps checked at the big valve service though. CrystalJohn - I've a few coils kicking about and would like to test them. I've got a multimeter but I'm not really into electrics. Any chance you can describe which prong goes where and settings etc? I hate these coils. Saying that the bike has got wet most times out this year!
Peo!! I would take a guess that you have water trapped in the horizontal cylinders plug recess. That needs drying out for the engine to fire properly. You don't even need to remove the plug , just the coil pack. If you have a multimeter set it to the lowest ohms range, my computer cant type the ohm symbol, so tricky to describe it ( google ohm symbol) to get an idea! position the meters probes on the outermost of the 3 terminals, (or leave out the middle terminal) with the coil pack disconnected. You should read something in the region of 105 ohms. Dont worry you wont do any harm if you get it wrong! here is the ohm symbol as opposed to the Aum symbol which is my advatar picture!
If I mislead you by telling you its the outermost of the 3 possible terminals, just try the middle terminal, and either the left or right one, in other words try all combinations you can get looking for the meter to read in the region of 105. you cant harm anything as you are just measuring the resistance of a coil of wire!
So:- Put my multimeter to lowest setting (200) in ohms and tested across outer coil connectors (remains blank if middle one used). I have 2 coils in stock including the one I took off yesterday. Both came up with 1.2 on te read out. Are they any good??! Complete novice with electrics
Peo!! I don't think I have given you the correct values! I was thinking of a 750ss I used to have. I have just been researching what are the correct values but have been unable to find anything despite looking in the workshop manual. I suggest you put a post on the Tech help section and hopefully someone might be able to help. btw You say you put the meter on the 200 range, do check that was not actually 200k ( 200,000) ohms range! very easy to not notice the 'K' If you could post a photo of the front panel of you meter I will be able to advice the correct range!
