I have been informed that I can change the suspension set up in the menu on the dash of an 1199s. I am 11 st or 72kgs, Any ideas on what the best settings are to give me optimum feedback from the road and keep comfort?
I asked at the dealership today and they pointed me in the direction of the fact that you can do it all through the menu on the dash yourself. So instead of willing to take £100 off me they gave me some useful advice instead.
A nd thats without the platform shoes on or Garry Glitter style boots But this ain't helping my query though is it. One day I will get a sensible response on here
That means they have NFC themselves (Dealer not chassis expert). Go to a respected suspension set-up engineer na tell him what you want. He will ask about how you ride, road types, tyre spec (type pressure etc) etc etc.
They have done all my other bikes their. So yeah I was surprised at what he said. Well I aint riding it yet I only intend on doing dry miles on it, so will see what the crack is when it has been run in.
Take the bike to Steve Jordan in Great Bookham nr Boxhill. They will charge £40 or thereabouts for the set up. Well worth it. Not only are he and his wife top class club racers, but I believe they are now racing Ducatis. Steve really knows his stuff. Further, the pre load cannot be set up from the dash.
I work up in Leatherhead, so they are literally a 5 min ride, when weather warms up a bit I will pop in for a chat. Thanks for that.
Try this if you want a reasonable road ride. You may struggle to get decent travel on your rear shock, you dont weigh enough to compress it. (what sex are you) You need to get some sag, remove some preload on the rear. Are you running f or p on the linkage? im running f, but want to try progressive Front Compression - 19 Front Rebound - 16 Rear Compression - 11 Rear Rebound - 8
I can't help being built like a racing centipede. F or P ? I got plenty of Sag in my leathers. I got out on it Sunday and did 100 miles suspension felt alright but that seat is rock hard.
on your rear link, theres an arrow, it points to F, thats 'flat', ie, track. 'f' setting gives linear compression through its stoke meaning compression and rebound is consistant through stroke. 'p' is progressive, this setting is basically for road, the spring gets stiffer the more its compressed, limiting bottoming. also it you are 2 up, its better, but you would probably need to be 3 up. cause it comes out the crate in 'f' , dealers cant be arsed to change it, because they presume most will track, also hence the over stiff shock. if changing from 'f' to 'p' the link rod also needs extending, by the distance from the 2 mounting points on the link plate. all this aside, you may need a new spring to get the right ride. theres a lot to consider, but you did buy a bike with 120 individual settings for rebound and compression lol.
Thanks for the explanation, I didn't know about the F & P It will never get a 2 up, and the only 3 up I want is on my sofa Fuck me how many settings.
lol, yes, 30 settings on each for rebound 30 settings on each for compression. thats 921,600 variables!!!
