Hey All Anyone have a setup guide for a 2001 BP? I got one from a guy at MCN who got one from an old copy of PB from "back in the day" but it is for a '99 with the different rear shock and I'm not sure if it should be the same settings or not? It may be old tyres (4yrs. pressure is fine), maybe the shock needs a service and new fork oils (10 1/2k) or maybe it's just it's a new bike to me but it doesn't seem to be right. High speed sweeping curves are fine but slower stuff like roundabouts I'm wobbling round like a newbie. Peace
I'd suggest starting with checking the sag and adjust if needed, also check ride height. The front hasn't been set to race has it?
No idea mate, not been in to have a look yet. She did come with a rather expensive slipper and a 50mm system with Sil Moto chip so wouldn't be surprised if she has seen the track. The arse end looks proper high.
You may need to invest in a ride height tool to check it. I'm sure there's a 'factory standard' eye-eye measurement for the rod, just don't know what it is right now...May be a good start point.
First thing would be to change the tyres if they are 4 years old as they must be pretty squared off by know and you will feel this. If the suspension has not been serviced, this will need to be done. Before sending the suspension away, check to see if the springs are correct for your weight, to do this you will need a friend or two and a tape measure, pen and paper. Follow the instructions here To set the correct ride height, you will beed a special ride height tool, no doubt you shoukd be able to borrow one or check on eabay to buy one. How to set suspension sag | MCN If you can not get the sags with in the measurments required by altering the preliad, you will need a different spring, speak to whoever you get to service your suspension. Hope this helps.
Hi Chris Why would the tyres square off due to being 4 years old? Surely squaring off is just down to miles? I know 4 years is getting to the end of usable life but they have lots of tread so I'd rather not junk them if it is the suspension set up that's all to pot.
Tyres only generally degrade with heat cycles so unless they've outside or in a shop window getting real hot in the day then cold over night you should be ok if you're happy they ain't squared off. If you're planning on keeping the bike, it might be worth getting the suspension overhauled by a reputable place. K-tech, MCT etc. They tend to take rider weight and riding style into account and not only improve the action of the suspension but give you a good base setting too. Generally only needing a couple of click here or there to go between winter and summer settings. If that's not an option the factory setting should be easy enough to find so start from there. But I'm guessing that's what you're looking for so sorry for wasting a few minutes of your life with this drivel.
What I'm really after is if the Ohlins and Showa rear shocks are set the same. Clicks, turns, mm, etc.
Well, if they have been on the bike for 4 years and used, there will be less tread in the centre than on the edge, so when you ride onto a roundabout for example, you will feel the lip of the squared of section as you lean the bike through the roundabout, that is one reason why the handling will feel different at low speeds and why i surmised that they will have less tread in the centre than the edge, a picture would help.
As Paul said, they are different. If the bike is not set up correctly for sags and ride height, no manner of adjusting will make it feel right, more than likley it will make it worse. Remember the 748/916/996/998 are race bikes with lights and a number plate, and are very suspension sensative.
Been doing a little light reading, @Chris.P , good MCN article thanks. My steering damper is on the hole nearest the tank and the steering lock works so looks like the steering head angle is correct for road use, which is nice. Good to know the Ohlins and Showa are different. Cheers Peps
So RTFM. Front looks easy enough to get back to standard. Which I think I will do rather than PBs settings, to start with at least. What I have not found yet is what "H" should be as a standard.
There isn't a standard for "H" there's too many variables, what they're saying is before ANY adjustments are made take a measurement for your own reference. As Nelson said you need a ride height tool to be able to compare your setup to any standards there are.
Hhuummm, trouble is, I don't know how jacked the rear end is already. Think I need an evening on Google finding the eye2eye length. Can't go buying a measure at those prices to use once, I have to draw the line somewhere.
Dave Moss cid, explains how to meAsure the swingarm pivot - rear spindle angle, I'll see if I can find the link
A good starting point on the ride height adjuster is 3-4 threads showing at each end, how does thst compare to yours??(that is if you have a standard ride height adjuster)