I have had the DES Preload error message and engine management light come up on 3 separate occasions since February and on the last time it was obvious that there was no pre load on the rear shock at all. Luckily I have a spare shock so have decided to swap the units over. I have already read that it is sensible to set the pre load at zero before removal but are there any other do's and don'ts and pitfalls that I should know about before starting the job? Thanks, Andy
from memory - I think - take care the screw(s) that hold the rear mudguard onto the swingarm, its easy to strip the thread and they screw into the same area as the shock.
Good luck getting the bolt out of the swinging arm it's well deep and you need a good quality long hex bit from memory it's 8mm but it could be 10mm I cant find the one I had to make to measure it sorry. A tip is before you try to undo the bolt that holds the shock onto your swinging arm pour a few full kettles full of boiling water around the area just to heat it up and expand the hole. to try to ease the shoulder and thread of the bolt.
Just a thought, is it possible to plug the replacement shock in before fitting it to confirm the initial diagnosis of a shagged shock ? Andy
Yes it is. I did it on mine. First Drop the power to ensure you don't damage anything. Still got a brand new just serviced rear shock for sale.
Been playing with the rear shock and the bloody things appears to be working normally. Well at least when you change the setting on the rear preload you can see the rear spring being compressed. How much compression should you be seeing ? I would guess mine is moving nearly 10mm although the adjustment appears to make little difference to how the suspension is bouncing between minimum and maximum preload. Is there a reason other than preload for the rear feeling soggy ? Andy
Yes you need to go into the DSS settings in the on board computer settings. I think you access it by holding the bottom navigation button on the left handle bar for 3 seconds.
