The stock h11 lamps on my multi aren't great so I'm thinking osram night breaker plus to replace the full and dipped lamps and maybe some form of auxiliary led lamps for lighting up the side of the road. Also probably a silly question but why does the dipped beam turn off when you switch to full rather than stay on to give more light ? I know that all 4 lamps will be drawing 220 W ( 55w a piece ) but as the generator is rated at 500w I would assume it could handle this but am prepared to be shot down in flames if I'm wrong.
This has been covered before and on the .info site in detail. When I'm on a full PC I'll put in the links. Depends on your year of bike. 2010 to twin spark, go with hid low beam (use slim line ballasts) and Osram Night breakers on high, with the relay modification to keep low beam on. Twin spark go for Osram night breakers on high. This already keeps low on with high. Auxiliary lights are a good idea. LED is best as it uses the lowest current.
Thanks for the reply air con, I have used hid's before and have a set of H7's spare in my garage taken from my previous bike I'm going to get one set of H11 osrams and compare the light output and make a decision regarding hid's. Need to have a look around for the relay mod.
I've HID's on the vans. I only use nightbreakers on the high beam as these are the whitest Xeon (normal) bulbs you can get. I think Philips do one, but it's no cheaper. The HID delay means that it cannot strike quick enough to use as high beam. My old van has a common bulb and the HID has a motorised shield that moves in about 10th second...neat.
Thanks for the link, it looks like the mod loom has some kind of diode in it to prevent a back feed through the relays making all the lights on at all times, without knowing the rating or polarity of that diode I cant really make the lead up myself. I'll contact andy w after I've sorted the Hid / Not hid decision out. and see about aquiring a lead from him.
I'd be up for a modded lead too. Looked before but no info on the diode. I have a number of times found myself riding along holding the flash button [emoji106]
Thanks Derek diode aquired from maplins for 49p and fitted, solder tagged onto the original crimps for the time being but I'll be trying to source some new bare crimps which can be fitted into the relay housing ( these being the same as the originals ) and remaking the loom with them. All tested and it works well at tick over with 2 lamps lit 14.1 v all 4 lit 13.79v and as the full beam wont be on all the time I doubt very much it will affect the battery. Just gotta wait for the osram lamps I orderd to turn up. oh and the maplin part number is QL74R 1N4002S 1A Silicon Rectifier | Maplin if someone has a link to the correct crimp to replace the smaller coil ones on the relay base block that would be great.
I'll have a crack at this when I get the bike back. Ordered the diode from eBay (10 for about 99p if anyone local wants a spare to do theirs). I already have some spade connectors but haven't looked at the 'how to' yet. Was it easy?
the diagram posted above helped a lot just make sure you get the polarity of the diode right, I did it in 20 mins
Make sure you get the correct size connectors-those normally sold are too wide. I think the correct ones are 4.8 mm...
If you find a post useful it would be nice to receive a thanks or useful like.....this is where i get a "drama queen" and "face palm" (from the king of palm action @Exige).
