Hey So found more rotten wood than I hopped. Question is, does ALL the wood with even a trace of rot need coming out? If I have cured why it went rotten vin the first place can I ignore bits with a trace of rot?
It odesn't look that bad to me........How deep does the softness go into the studs? If it is only say, 5mm; scrape off the soft stuff and treat with something decent like Cuprinol. If it is worse, bolt or big screw a length of stud to the side for about 600mm high or even insert a new one full height and leave the old one in after you treated it.
The timber in the first picture is beyond use IMO. It wants either replacing entirely of or new piece scarfing in at the base. The second picture looks fine. Treat with preserver and wood hardener. Its not worth going to the time and expense of putting a new covering on a rotten base. If needs be I'd move the bikes out to somewhere secure for a few days and blitz it. If you've fully exposed the structural timbers it isn't much more work to repair or replace them. Do it once, do it right.
Ok, going to get the bad one out. What is the actual issue with leaving it in though if you can still get a good fix and treat it?
Also, the left post in this picture is quite bad behind the plug. As you can see I have changed the bottom 1/3 already. Trouble with changing the whole post is all the shiplap will need to come off and its not usable again as ripping the nails through. Can I just treat the rotten bit and put a 3rd upright in?
I have a little experience with wood and I would treat it and leave well alone, there's plenty of strength there for years to come. If you want to splice a bit in for peice of mind then carry on. Steve I was replying to the original pictures.
Bearing in mind the rafter is probably transferring load down the first stud that Gimlet suggests replacing, can you support the roof / eaves off the slab with some deadmen (or an Acrow prop if you have one) so you can get a new stud in place? If not, fix a short stud on one side of the rotten one (into good wood) then cut the bottom off to remove the rotten bit; then put another short stud on the other side of it. Scarving (45 degree angle cuts) it has to be done accurately otherwise you will have a kinked stud.... Mind you, the rot that I can see is only wet rot, so it isn't going to spread once you have got things dry. And what you appear to have done would be OK by me.....
!00% treat the rot and put a third upright in is bang on and maybe even an over kill. ya doin a grand job.. carry on as you are and you'll get decades outa that shed. providing ya cladding goes down enough (and creates a drip) to prevent capillary action drawing water up and rottin out the sole plate and you treat the cladding right there is no reason it will ever rot really
