Gents, Bought a PZ racing gear indicator for the 848, it specifies after selecting the colour, to then run the bike through the gears at 4000-5000 rpm, changing up when it flashes to the next gear... My question is.... How exactly am I supposed to manage that ? Of course I've got a single sided swingarm stand... but running it through the gears on it ? Really ? I could in theory head over to a mates place and put on the dyno, but that seems excessive both in terms of effort and of costs... . Thoughts ?
You could try their customer service email address and ask for a better explanation. I use a PZ Racing Camera and Datalogger set-up and I found them very helpful when I wanted more details. I take your point above but maybe what they have written and had translated is not what they mean(!), I found that with some instructions for my Datalogger were no clear and they wrote back with some better advice and a clearer explanation. PZRacing - Customer Service <[email protected]>
As @Red998 suggests seems like a good idea to ensure clarity. I think most gear indicators are the same, they need to measure rear rotation wheel pulses to engine rotation pulses to obtain the ratio for each gear. I think on the one I've got it was 3-4k each gear. Usually its only for a second or 2 in each gear, and the indicator will tell you to move to the next gear. I did it on my 1098 on the paddock stand, although it sounds pretty horrid with everything thrashing about because of no applied load on the rear wheel. Just tighten the chain a little to reduce backlash, if I'm right the indicator, will see the ratio at 3-4ks engine rpm. I was shitin masel when doing it but in the end up it was a bit of a non event, just make sure its solidly on the paddock stand and you should be fine
thank you Although I'm still leaning towards taking to a mates Dyno for it. There's no ambiguity in the text... as you've found yourself, it need to be run through the gears.... there's no other way of it knowing... You're a brave man !
No doubt a Dyno would be better, but I really wouldn't worry its pretty safe to do it on the stand, providing it a good solid one and your careful. I used the Ducati stand the type with the pin, that goes through the axle. Just don't overthink it as otherwise (if you are anything like me) you'll just procrastinate :Coldfeet: and worry yersel sick, grasp the nettle man :Nailbiting: As for bravery its not a trait I'm known for, now stupidity that's another matter :Facepalm:
Stupidity is the bit I worry about My stand isn't pinnable at the end of the spindle. So I'm leaning towards it being more a winter job than a right here and now job.
sheesh, well that was WAY harder than I thought it would be.... the instructions seemed to be in English... but it was more a mish mash of English words thrown together. You find yourself doing a job, then getting to the next step and it tells you something it needed to tell you at the end of the last bit.. So you have to go back to step 1. You then realise you needed to do something else 3 steps ago So it ended up taking about 10 runs on the dyno before I even managed to get it to register there was a gearbox attached ! However it wasn't quite right as when you changed from 2nd to 1st it still thought you were in 2nd. The problem was that it seemed to be a nano-second from the time you had to disconnect the earth to the time it wanted to be at 4500rpm and changing to 2nd gear... Next few tries all I managed to do was to change to display colour ! In between all this you're having to wait to let the bike cool as it's running at 109 deg ! Finally I got it to go through the box, changing the gears at the right RPM, phew... Then it was onto testing... YAY ! All good. 2 hours and it's finally OK.. Dragged it back home on the trailer and cable tied up the ridiculously long cable into a few loops and happy
Interesting to know that you got it to work. I tried two of them and niether one would move out of first. I put mine on the paddock stand and wedged the front wheel up against the garage wall and also tried the calibration process on the road but without any joy. Shame really as the unit looks good quality. Maybe I should've tried on a rolling road.....
To get it to change was a question of on off on off at the exact time. If you get one bit even a second wrong, its useless. By that time the bike is close to overheating! It was IMO a bit rubbish as no way could you do this on a road etc. But, its done and will be tested at Pembrey in 10 days.
I was also very lucky to have unrestricted use of my mates dyno. He strapped it down, plonked me on the bike with a coffee and apart from the odd bit of wisdom just left me to my is devices
I love mates like this. Bet you coffee stayed warm with all that heat about?!?! I roasted my nads when I tried doing mine on the paddock stand. Amazing how warm they can get when stationary.
Well it was tested at Pembrey this weekend and worked a treat The Mrs wasn't quite as convinced as me saying it didn't register quickly enough down through the box into hairpin, but I guess I change differently to her as it worked a dream for me.
Just a thought, what are you using to secure it to the side of the dash? If your not already get some Dual lock miles better than velcro, its like velcro on steroids. If buying there are several strengths so make sure you get the strongest available. Glad you are all sorted though, I've got a GiPro, just for the road and love it, the "you can't count to 6 brigade" can shove it
I used some double sided number plate sticker spongey thing. Seems to work and grip brilliantly (not in the pic above, that was just for testing with gaffer tape) But I will bear that in mind and add to my ebay list for future use.
Very interesting thread / read as i am wanting one for my 749s ,,,,,,, i didnt think it would just be plug and play and now i am bit more prepared ....... Ta R
