1991 750ss Carbs

If you have a stock pair of carbs...........generally 2.5 turns out from fully in.......

If you have a Stage 1 or Stage 2 Dynojet kit fitted generally 3.5 turns out.

NB! Don't force / overtighten them as you screw them in.

Bear in mind the pilot screw settings are affected by the fuel / float levels, because it is all part of the same circuit; so you may need to play around with the screw settings a bit............and they won't necessarily be equal.

 

I'll be impressed if both of them turn ok. My SS was in pretty good nick when I got it but one of the pilot screws was seized solid.
Probably a good idea to take them both out and give them a liberal coating of grease.
I used copaslip once I managed to replace the seized screw but I'm no longer certain if t's ideal for this application

 

Anything from approx 2 to 4 turns out is absolutely fine if all standard. The difference in adjustment is so fine that it's hard to tell the difference unlike early Dellorto or Weber carbs fitted to cars. I use a plentiful amount of rubber grease (red in colour) when fitting the idle mixture screws to preserve the O ring and of course to stop the screw from seizing up.

 

Here you are..

 

I've still got the rubber bungs for mine Chris........:wink:

But I still grease the screws anyway....

 

I just did this quickly in case it is of use....
AV 16.1
1) Spring
2) Nylon washer thingy
3) Needle Clip
4) Needle
5) Washer for fine adjustment
6) Washer
7) Slide
8) Emulsion tube (or needle nozzle)
9) O ring (fits between top cover and carb body)
10)Can’t remember, but don’t fiddle with it
11)Ditto
12)Fuel feed T piece O rings
13)Diaphragm Air Cut-Off Valve
14)Spring
15)Main Diaphragm Top Cover

AV 16
1) Float Bowl
2) Float Bowl Gasket (sometimes called an O ring)
3) Jet Holder
4) Gasket (sometimes called an O ring)
5) Main Jet O ring
6) Main Jet (held in by the forked piece)
7) Starter Jet
8) Pilot Jet
9) Inline filter
10)Fuel line T-piece ends and O rings
11)O ring
12)Washer
13)Spring
14)Pilot Screw
15)O Ring
16)Float Assembly
17)Pilot Screw rubber bung
18)Blanking Plug….sometimes not present or Carb Heaters fitted

Also there is the choke / fast idle mechanism which is fairly easy to work out which parts are which.

NB….I always forget which way round (7) & (8) are called….I check by the size marked on them!

 

I was thinking I should upload the descriptions as well but you've gone and done it for me.
Thanks

 

If you need parts from someone like Allens Performance I'm sure we can give you the right part numbers (well, the ones they use anyway).............bear in mind that if you have a Dynojet kit fitted which is quite possible, the only way to identify it is from the needle, main jet and the spring........If Dynojet, you will find that the needle won't have any size markings and the main jet won't have the little square logo like the OEM Mikuni parts, just the size......the spring is 'thinner' than the OEM one.

It's also a good idea not to adjust the float levels (and don't muddle the assemblies up).....and if you do try to adjust, record what they are before you do it.