1098r Clutch Problems

Reverse bleeding. That's how I do the KTM. Takes seconds (older KTMs have a habit of blowing pistons seals in the master cylinder. Replacement kits are available - £30).
Bought a 50 ml syringe from a vet and attached a short length of 3 mm syphon tube. Fill with fluid and expel all air then attach tube to the bleed nipple on the slave. Remove reservoir lid, slacken nipple and inject fresh fluid so any air in the system is expelled upwards. Tighten nipple and pump lever a couple of times. All air should be gone.
If the fluid is black the seals are probably perished which is why there's air in the system in the first place, in which case bleeding is only a get-you-home fix. It'll keep drawing air.
If it is the slave I'd just fit an Oberon.

I'm a big believer in flushing and changing hydraulic fluid every major service, not leaving it till it goes black. I'm sure that prelongs the life of the seals (at either end). This job is a lot more DIY-friendly on older KTMs because they use non- corrosive mineral oil instead of DOT fluid so risk of damage to paintwork from ham-fisted gits like me..

 

While you're at it....Remove the clutch slave and put a dab of grease on the end of the push rod.
Lots to do today....

 

Had a similar thing Steve only in a lorry, clutch went in Saudi Arabia, it was a Volvo artic with 16 gears, I drove it from Saudi through Syria, Jordan and the full length of Turkey to Istanbul where there was a Volvo agent to get a service kit for the slave cylinder. Them were the days.
Steve

 

Mr.R is spot on with this. The first time it happened to me I was on my 996SPS whilst on the way to Bridge in Exeter. I was travelling at the time and found myself stuck in 3rd gear and unable to stop for fear of stalling and being unable to start again. I had a VERY interesting ride through the outskirts of Exeter through junctions and traffic lights taking diversions and riding on the pavement rather than stopping - just to keep the engine running! I finally got to Riders, bought some fluid and borrowed a spanner and fixed it in their car park. I've always carried an 11mm with me ever since and at sometimes have to give my D16 a mini bleed when on ride outs. All part of owning a proper Ducati

 

These are nice...

 

DOT 4 mate.

 

Does it not say on the reservoir lid?
Also, +1 on the Oberon slave cylinder.
It's likely to be the slave cylinder at fault, the seals are superior to oem and you'll get a lighter clutch action, so win/win.

 

I bet you are a riot on ride outs Dave.

 

Those tubes don't hold much fluid, you'll soon flush all the old stuff out.

 

Can DOT5 be used (after flushing obviously) where DOT4 is specified?
The Superduke used to use mineral oil but for this year the buggers have changed to DOT4 hydraulic paint stripper.

 

I think we'd all prefer to use non paint-stripper if possible.

 

LOL yeah

I only have to do it once or twice every year / 5000 miles ... but it is normally a cue for a bit of piss-taking

 

Since building my track bike two and a half years ago, I've used race spec brake fluid. Currently using Motul 660 (DOT4) and found it to be excellent for the Multistrada as well and when the back stops complaining, I'll be changing both brake and clutch fluid on my 1098R. Andy

 

Whilst you are there, take off the clutch cover (assuming you don't already have one of those open clutch covers) and put a dot of tipex or similar on the end of the clutch push rod in the centre of the pressure plate. Start up the engine and verify that the push rod is not spinning with the pressure plate.

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/tech-articles/Brake-Fluid-Explained.pdf
According to the above, DOT4 and DOT 5.1 are both glycol based.
So why is 4 corrosive and 5.1 not??