Hi Everyone, I currently having lot of trouble with my Monster 696 abs. Two weeks ago I accidentally left my parking light on all night and battery is flat! So I had decided to bump start, It started up at the second attempted. Next Day in the morning before riding to work, I found the clutch line is part broken near the top of the clutch housing. While the bike is out of service, I connected to a 'Smart' battery charger to charge up the very low battery. But after few hours, the charger started making buzzing noise and the immobiliser red light wasn't flashing. The battery is completely dead. Today, I install a new battery and it start fine. However, after about 10 minute, the clutch line got very hot and it burns the cable right near the clutch line. I had to disconnect the battery to stop the heat. I've tried to connect the battery with and without starting the bike, the clutch line heated up anyway. I'm wondering the clutch line heats up because of the dry clutch line? But seems very strange that it gets hot even without starting the engine, only connect to the battery. Could anyone give me some advice please?
Clutch line , do you mean a cable or hydraulic line , if it's a cable clutch it sounds like the battery is using the clutch cable as a battery lead , I would looking at cables from battery to the frame or any earth cables from engine to frame or battery to engine . If the heavy cables are poor contact or high resistance the earth path will try to find another pathway , clutch cable being one of them ....that's why It gets hot and can melt the outer sleeve
Thanks for reply. Yes, It's the hydraulic clutch line. I replaced the negative cable, but the hydraulic line still heat up. All fuses in the outer fuse box are fine. It only happen when I connect the cable which go into the ABS unit. Any other thought?
As Lee says,it sounds like an earth isn't earthing and using the clutch line as the next best thing.Never heard of that before though.
I've replaced the negative cable connected between the battery and engine case. Still the same... I think I will have to check every connection, it'll be a pain to get through some of them deep down... :fearful:
Does the lead you replaced go direct from battery neg to alternator case , is there any other cables that go from bike frame to engine , or other cables off the battery that go to frame Or try jump leads one from frame to engine the frame must be clean metal to get contact, and one from battery to engine . The clutch line is it a braided line ( aero quip ) type , obviously if it was an all rubber hose it could not flow current . The wiring that goes to the abs pump is there any earth eyelets coming off that section of loom .
The negative cable to connect straight to the alternator case. There is a negative cable coming from ABS pump. The hydraulic line only gets hot when I connect the ABS pump positive cable and the negative cable which connected straight to alternator case. I will try to jump lead from battery to engine case tomorrow. Is there any where is not safe to jump to?
Your not using the jump leads to 'jump' it as it in a starting sence , just using them as substitution leads as to carry out diagnosis . With the leads when you find the bad pathway the clutch hose will stop getting hot . When you connect the abs pump up do the positive or negative battery cables cables get hot at all . Does the negative eyelet off the abs pump earth at the frame ? try a jump lead off that eyelet to battery earth , ive a feeling this issue is a battery to frame earth missing . When you connect abs pump up i would assume the abs pump will purge to build pressure which will take some current if there is no earth path via the frame to battery its using the clutch hose to earth its self .
Just a thought behind the headlight area where the clutch line goes , has it rubbed into any wiring .
First thought would have been bad earth between frame to engine/engine to battery as already said. I don't know 696 well but does it have a 'pushrod through crankcase' type clutch? If it has, and pressure bearing has seized then could produce similar symptoms as pushrod constantly spinning. I know later bikes have anti-spin dowel through the pushrod but not sure when it was introduced.
Thanks for reply guys. I've sent it to a garage after I tried everything I'm able to do. Will update when it's done.
Does sound like there's a cable rubbed through and earthing the line. The line is coated so my first guess would be the loom coming from the LH switch. It's tied up to the line, so could have gone through on the crimp of the banjo.
Another check to confirm if it's an earthing problem would be to check the hydraulic line for heating up while you are churning starter from cold.
