New Clutch, Oil Residue

Discussion in 'Technical Help' started by Joe748, Apr 21, 2016.

  1. So as some of you know, I am in desperate need of new clutch fitting. Said unit, being a newfren ally plate set and basket arrived yesterday.

    As I opened up to check it's the right one I noticed all the steel plates seem to have a film of oil on them, I assume this is to stop them rusting in storage but is it going to contaminate the friction plates? Does it need cleaning off?
    Just a niggling concern I was hoping to clear up before I get at it tonight
     
  2. I wouldn't worry about it.

    Some people actually impregnate their friction plates with white lithium grease, then cook them in the oven. All in order to make for a smoother take-up.

    If that doesn't make the clutch slip, I'm sure a little protective film won't.
     
  3. I'd be using some brake cleaner to remove the protective oil from your steels;myself.

    Each to their own, but I can't see any benefit of contaminating your friction plates with any kind of lubricant.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  4. I was thinking along lines of break cleaner. Just thought I'd check it's not there for a reason.
    Cheers chaps
     
  5. Absolutely.

    How many bikes have lubricated clutch plates...
     
  6. As you are implying, if it's a wet clutch, then crack on and fit them as oily as you want.....

    But if I'm judging @Joe748 right by his user name, we're talking about a dry clutch here. You say fitting oily steels to a dry clutch won't make it slip, I wouldn't be confident.

    I might try oiling my brake pads to stop them squealing tonight.........I'm sure they'll be fine. :Watching:
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  7. I hope the new clutch plates weren't supplied as a pack, with the stack in the correct order..........that's oil on the friction material straightaway.......

    ............and how many cars have a new clutch lubricated and fitted just after the old one was chucked away because the main oil seal failed?
     
  8. Well, some of my plates have been rather more than contaminated with lithium grease, never mind some residue of preservative oil and I'm getting no slip whatsoever.

    Just lucky I guess...
     
  9. It is indeed dry clutch and the plates weren't in order but all friction on top of all steel so I can just about tell one side of friction plate has a tiny bit on.

    It really is a very small amount on them it just struck me as odd when I took them out that they would deliberately have any on.
    As It turns out the clutch tool I borrowed is a universal one. in other words, doesn't fit any-bloody-thing as I should know by now so it's all on hold til the new tool arrives
    Gives me time to get them all clean I suppose.
     
  10. If you are only changing steels and friction plates, there is no need for any special clutch holding tools.
    You only need a special tool if you are removing the centre hub nut.

    Edit: just re read your post and see that you are putting on a new basket. So you will need a clutch holding tool.
    Sorry.
     
    • Funny Funny x 1
  11. I am indeed replacing basket, plus the main hub nut undid itself as I was riding along so I would have to put that back either way
     
  12. Old Rider is spot on. Don't worry about it.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Ok so after much waiting for delivery etc I got the clutch in after giving plates a wipe.
    Thing is I had to loose one of the blank steel plates at the bottom (engine side)of the stack in order to get it to play along and eliminate clutch drag.
    Doesn't drag or slip so I assume all is well. It's not going to cause any unforseen problem down the lime is it? Loosing the plate I mean.
     
  14. I have no doubled up plates at all - works fine...
     
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