evening all. Just got back from picking up the freshly powder coated wheels and decided to crack on and knock out the old bearings and put the new ones in. I removed the seal from the left hand side and removed the speedo drive flange but couldn't knock out the R/H bearing as the spacer tube is just about the Same ID as the bearing itself. So I couldn't get enough on the screwdriver to give the bearing a decent whack. Read the Haynes manual and that says to use a brass drift... Could anyone offer any tips or tricks? Ian
Surprised your coater did the job with the bearings still fitted. You should find that there is just enough sideways movement in the inner tube to give the edge of the screw driver purchase on the inner race. Andy
Me too! Thanks for the reply. I suppose I'll just have to crack on with it until it gives. But I'm surprised they've made it that difficult to remove. I'm thinking that once the spacer's out, I might get a small internal chamfer cut out just to make it easier in the future. Thanks
Ah, TBH I was a bit tired as I'd just flown back in from Spain and maybe that's why I didn't notice it. I did read the manual before though and can't remember that saying anything... I'll have a better look on Saturday when I get back from work. Thanks
Haha. Great minds... Well, maybe one day! Spot on, Chris. Thanks a lot. Wheel Bearing Removal - Ducati Sporting Club
The bearings really should have been removed before the wheels were coated as the grit from blasting the wheels prior to coating will almost certainly find it's way into some area of the bearing causing premature wear if it is not removed. The most certain and safest way to remove the bearings is to use a blind bearing puller which uses a slide hammer action to pull on the bearing. Not cheap but it will work on many bearings, and I use one of these for any bearing that is not a simple knock out job. You will be amazed at how hard some bearings are to remove at times. The worst one I had was an LC Yamaha rear bearing retainer in the wheel where I had to heat the bearing retainer up and then use the slide hammer on it as the hammer alone just would not move it. Clarke blind bearing puller | eBay
I have previously used a raw bolt which is used for fixing things to masonry walls etc. Put the bolt in the bearing and then screw it up to expand it in the bearing. Then use a long drift to knock it out. Raw bolts can be bought for a couple of quid. Rawlplug XPT Throughbolts M12 x 100mm 10 Pack | Through Bolts | Screwfix.com
The place that powdercoated my wheels won't touch anything with bearings in it as the oil/grease can contaminate the painting process.
Thanks for the replies. Don't know why they didn't pull the bearings TBH. They are specialists in motorcycle powder coating and the boss told me he would pull them before painting... Luckily there's no contamination around the hub which I was expecting. Maybe they tried to remove them and saw what they were up against! I'll have them out tomorrow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Surprised they didn't remove em or mask em up, be careful there isn't a build up of paint on the outer shell that will flake off the wheel when you knock em out
Cheers mate. They were well masked up. No paint around where the discs sit nor the threads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Haha. My 7 year old gremlin son even laughed when he saw them! See if I can get tires done as well tomorrow. What are you up to tomorrow? ;-) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sorted. Used the notch in the spacer tube to knock them out. New bearings and seal fitted and brake disc bobbins freed up and cleaned.
