Certainly from experience it needs 12.6 to even think about going. I wonder if something is draining it or stopping it from charging fully?
Which would tie in with my last journey. Started ok, rode for an hour, stopped. Half hour later it started, rode for 20 minutes. Left it for a few hours then wouldn't start again, came home in a recovery truck.
Could that be capable of doing that? When i first got the bike that had to be changed as was faulty, was only last March (2015).
Yeah they can do it Was it an OEM one fitted or a aftermarket one ? Not that that means much....Hondas used to eat them all the time until a few years ago....
You can test it with a multimeter but it would be better for you to read a write up with some pics on it than me explain it....
I have heard talk of the Mosfet one, anyone got one and it made a significant difference? Mosfet Regulator For Ducati 1098 / 1198 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 | eBay
Pavey Get the battery out the bike and charge it on an Optimate or whatever on its own. It should go onto float and may flicker back and forward for a short time then, more or less stay solid float. Take the Optimate off and let the battery sit for 15-30 minutes then measure the voltage, it should be up around 13V-12.75 min Put the battery into the bike and try to start it. If it is reluctant then put your hand on the starter immediately after the attempt, it may be a little warm but if its the starter that's shorting then the motor will get hot. If its none of these then the next move would be to measure the battery voltage, leave it for a couple of days then measure the voltage again. The voltage will be down from the immobilizer but not drastically You could then also try to start it, if it started when fully charged but is now reluctant and the voltages are down when measured from the initial readings taken a few days before then it could be as @Jody states. With electrics you need to be super analytical in your approach, otherwise you'll just run around in circles................take it from one who knows. Please do not take what I'm saying as any sort of slight but I've been there so many times before and its only when you take a meticulous approach measuring voltages, taking notes as you go that you'll start to make in roads to isolating the culprit John
Found this, looks perfect as has the Triumph harness on it already - TRIUMPH / DUCATI UPGRADED REGULATOR KIT INCLUDING WIRING MOSFET FH012 R1 TYPE | eBay
That looks a bit Heath Robinson, Best to use the proper lead set with a MOSFET Reg/Rec Triumph Motorcycles | Triumph Parts Number Seach | Triumph Parts | Triumph Clothing | Triumph Accessories
Hi mate. I fitted a mosfet one to my 848 when the std RR went tits up. Got one from a triumph and link cable from them too. End of problems... For my 998, I got a second hand RR from a diavel and used the triumph link cable again. Voltage in both cases is spot on, 13.4V and doesn't get that warm like the std ones. Whilst at it. Chop the plug from the yellow wires and solder the 3 yellow wires together. End of problems.
I was told by the supplier of my Yuasa that it is vital to charge them on an Optimate or similar before use or it will never work properly. The instructions also tell you to do that and the Motobatt is the same type of AGM battery.
I think this is a common practice for some dealers to stick the battery straight on without fully charging, I've seen it done.
So, fitted new mosfet r/r yesterday and it roared to life, once. Wouldn't start again then and the battery volts were still at 12.2. Put it on charge over night and still the same this morning, 12.2. Fiddled about with it, disconnected the screen for the camera and put it back on charge, then noticed the charger (Optimate 3) was on the SAVE setting, rather than Charge. Googled it and means the battery is deeply flat. Currently have my other batter on charge off the bike as recommended by Old Jock., so shall see what the outcome is of that.
@Pavey If the battery is deeply discharged but relatively new, you MIGHT be able to bring it back to life by getting it onto a car type battery charger to bring it back up to around 13V or so then try the Optimate again. OBVIOUSLY THIS HAS TO BE PREFORMED WITH THE BATTERY ON A BENCH OFF THE BIKE Might work, might not, the problem with Optimates are they just don't have the grunt (sufficient amperage) to kick a deeply discharged battery back into life. They are fine for keeping a healthy battery in good condition but not much else. If you do this do not leave the battery unattended, it could become really hot, if it starts to get that way then I'd simply abandoned the attempt Worth a try to save the battery, perhaps??? John
Don't forget this is an AGM battery, so slightly different rules may apply. If the OP can't get a replacement under warranty, anything's worth a try but I'd try for a replacement first. They are the ones who said it didn't need an initial charge, after all.
@Old rider thanks for the warning, I had not considered that and yes if you can get a replacement under warranty I wholeheartedly agree with your advice Absorbed Glass Matt batteries from my experience are even worse & require higher currents from chargers to recover. My experience is with Odyssey batteries & from their manual, they state battery charger output be in the 14.2-15V window. For charging batteries up to 18Ah if they are discharged then a 6A charger is recommended. They also talk about Deltran's Battery Tender which is a similar product to the Optimate and state that it's acceptable to use these to float the battery and keep it healthy but it will not recover a deeply discharged battery. @Pavey all I can do is give you my recommendations based on that information. If it was me I'd first try to get a user manual and/or visit the manufacturer's website to see what his recommendations are specifically for the particular battery you have. If not then and its only what I'd do I am not a battery specialist, is give it a go. Optimates/Tenders are just that, they are notoriously weak in there output rating and sometimes are just not up to the job. I still think 12.2V is not a deeply discharged state, so I reckon getting it onto a charger with a bit of Oomph should bring it back to life, basically if you do not leave it unattended when conducting the charging there is little to loose. If there was a fault the battery would get hot long before it would explode, generally from what I've seen, they actually tend to melt and burst the casings if really really abused. That's just my experience with them, IMHO, AGMs are great & surpass conventional and gel by a long way. I also think they are way more robust and less hazardous than Li Po/Fe types. Their only downside is they are usually soddin heavy brutes John
