Wow, thanks for all the advice, I have a few things to do. Al, as regards the setup I will get back to you after trying above.
Thanks everyone for your wisdom and advice. I have admitted it really needs the benefit if being set up using the correct equipment to get the best out of it. I booked it into Ian Murray for next week
I'm just wondering if they came pre set up to fit an open airbox, race-can SS, which is the most likely scenario. That is how I would expect California Cycleworks FCR kits to be - could be wrong though...
Was it 470four (RIP) by any chance.............He had a sod of a job trying some out and gave up IIRC.
Thats what I thought, however I do have a few mods. Open airbox with K and N Full Sil spaghetti system 92mm high comps Ignitech unit CACycleworks coils lightened flywheel banked 41mm Keihins The headers will affect fueling, as will the high comps. Timing also may need adjusted. I just think its better for an expert to now look at it.
Not me. Mine were never used. The tales of woe put me off them. There was a forum member who tried a set on his refurbished SL. He couldn't live with his and went back to Mikunis. That sealed it for me.
And now you read my posts with amusement! Lol, at least it hasn't flooded my engine like last year, learnt about that one quick enough.
Ha! I've been following your posts with interest. I think...... That would've been me ! I remember when i told my friend who runs a bike repair shop I'd got them, he was not very " encouraging "!!
This is pretty much the setup that I am have. I don't have an Ignitech, but I have messed with the length of the timing 'lump' on the flywheel. The full advance is now some 2° less, and it appears to work OK, without pinking on normal unleaded. I am also running replica spaghetti headers by Mark Lumb from MADASL Racing Now I have stock cam timing after a few adventures with adjustable pulleys. I'm also running Sil Motor high level pipes with baffles in. I can't remember what needle position I am running on my FCRs, but I have gone one up on the main jet size from the Cycleworks recommendations. They recommend that the mixture screws are opened by 1 1/4 turns, but I found that I experienced the idle hanging up issue that you have. Another half a turn out calmed this down, to almost perfect, and another quarter of a turn has it spot on, so my recommendation is two turns out. If you run out of adjustment, then go up a size on the idle jet. This has so far only been tested in temperatures of above 19° or so. I might expect further misbehavior at lower temps. Don't forget that at higher relative humidity that we get here in the UK compared to the USA will effectively increase the air mass for the same given temperature, and make the mixture leaner.
I think you will find the higher the humidity, the richer the mixture................learned by harsh experience of seized TZ350 engines in our outfits.........in the end we carted a barometer around with us so we could judge which main jets to stick in on the day of the race.
