Hi Folk's To kick start 2017 Opie Oils has the offer for you. You can get a massive 15% off Motul 5000 4T 10w-40 What makes this offer even better is every time you order 4L of Motul 5000 4T 10W-40 you will also receive 1L completely FREE To receive this amazing offer please use the discount code: MOTUL5000 This offer is for Limited time only , so please place your order before you miss it! Still wondering if this is the oil for you? Looking for a recommendation? Don’t worry Opie Oils are here to help once again! We’re in the office Monday to Friday 8:30 – 5:30 on 01209 202 944 or [email protected] we’ll be happy to help. That’s all from us for today. -Opies
Hi It depends on the race oil. Things like the Silkolene Pro 4 and Motul 300V have additive packs that are completely fine for road use, making them the best choice for road use in many bikes. Then there are a few race oils with no detergents that are not suitable for road use. Those are pretty rare though. Cheers Tim
Interesting... Does 300v also have the same corrosion inhibitors and long life properties that something like 7100 has??
Hi Oil companies rarely give out specific information like that, but there are plenty of people that have used 300V in road bikes for years with no issues. I would assume that the additive package in the 7100 and 300V are similar, perhaps a little more in the way of anti-wear additives and anti-foaming in the 300V, but I don't think there would be much difference. People often think that the race oils are designed to be used then drained after each track session, but they actually have really good detergent packages. Someone will have a car or bike running on a normal oil, which is relatively golden in colour, then they put in a race oil and it goes black in a couple of days. The customer usually thinks the oil has been burnt and it's not that good, but it's actually the additive package doing a better job of cleaning the engine than a standard oil, it's cleaned out the bits that the normal oil missed. Cheers Tim
Hopfully this will help. https://www.motul.com/system/produc...8/original/7100_4T_10W-40_(GB).pdf?1362492545 and https://www.motul.com/system/produc...V_Factory_Line_10W-40_TDS_(GB).pdf?1388426762. Andy
It does and it doesn't as it doesn't list specific levels of additives. The only real thing you can do is compare specifications, so as the 7100 meets the MA2 spec, it means it is suitable for reduced emissions systems and generally those oils will have reduced levels of ZDDP (one of the anti-wear additives). As the 300V is a proper performance oil, emission systems come pretty low on the list of priorities, so that will have the full dose of ZDDP. There is also the information that doesn't get published. For instance, there is a range of oils that we sell for cars and the manufacturers list the oils as not for road use, but they actually cover ACEA and API specs for road use. By saying they are not for road use, they appear more race-orientated, so people think they are superior for race use than other race oils. It also appeals to the guys that like to tell their mates they are using race bits in their road cars. 300V is a bit like that, Motul don't advise it's use in road vehicles, but there are a lot of cars and bikes using it with no issues. The only real sense to it is that because the race oils are not manufacturer approved and are not designed for low emissions vehicles, they are not suitable for a lot of the newest vehicles that are under warranty. By giving a blanket response of 'not for road use' it saves Motul time and expense in dealing with potential issues. Cheers Tim
Lots of Ducatis no longer have their cats in them so emissions are probably not a big priority for most of us either. However, what tipped the balance for me to use bike specific oil is the assertion that bike specific oils get extra corrosion inhibitor additive because bikes tend to sit in cold garages/sheds all winter. Does 300v have as much of this as 7100?? I'd be surprised... Btw, does Opie Oils have any link with Roy Opie, who I think probably still holds the record for the Trengwainton hill-climb?
Hi Unfortunately, that isn't information that is listed. Oil companies are quite vague about a lot of things and that is not something they give a figure for. A higher level of corrosion inhibitor for bike oils might be something that some companies do, but I don't think it would be a massive benefit as although a bike is more likely to be laid up over winter than a car, generally the bike oil will have covered less miles than a car oil, so there would be less things in the oil to protect against. Also, some bike oils and car oils are identical, just with different labels, so there would be no difference with those. I think Roy Opie was related to the family that started the business, but it's another family that own it now. Cheers Tim
I would have thought it was condensation you'd be guarding against with the extra inhibitors. Some car and bike oils are the same but with different labelling? Wow, that's quite a revelation - I think you should name and shame... Can't say I'm amazed. I knew someone who worked for the leading silicone sealant company and all their marine, household and automotive products were the same stuff inside.
It's not a case of naming and shaming, if they are good in a car and bike, it's not a problem. Sometimes the bike ones can work out more expensive, due to smaller cans, but not always. I won't put it in writing on here as it was told to us off the record. There is the condensation, but there are also acids that build up in the oil from use, so there are two types of corrosion you are trying to protect against. The only real way of protecting against condensation is to use an ester oil to cling to the metals, other oils will drain down and if there is no oil where it needs to be, it can't protect. Cheers Tim
I need another box of oil off you Mr Oilman (should have popped in when I was home in Penwith over christmas!). I had 10-40 off you last time but I'm assuming 10-50 is better for track/race use? and do you have any deals on for that?
Hi There were some guys in the office, so you could have popped in, I was also in Penwith and not thinking about oil at all. Unless the bike is heavily modified or it's endurance racing, I would stick with a 10w-40. As it's thinner when hot, it will flow faster and cool the engine more effectively. 10w40 Motorcycle Engine Oil The best oils there are the Silkolene Pro 4, Motul 300v, Red Line, Shell Advance Ultra 4 and Castrol Power 1 Racing. The Motul 7100 and 5100, Castrol Power 1, Shell Advance VSX and Silkolene Comp 4 and Super 4 are good cheaper alternatives. Cheers Tim
you mention the 7100 and 5100 there, so what's the difference with the 5000 you are currently discounting? Not as good?
Hi Yes, it's a more basic oil. The 7100 is a synthetic with an ester content, the 5100 is a semi with esters, the 5000 is just a normal semi. Still decent stuff, but not as good as the other 7100 or 5100. Cheers Tim
