Stainless Steel Clutch Springs...

ok here goes .You are a large flaccid COCK. Nothing more than a clueless muppet with no idea of engineering or physics at all. isnt it time you put tea on for mummy?

 

Yeah OK you carry on as you know everything.

 

At last, you said something with merit. Though not true....................I do not know everything or nor is everything I know correct (well not PC).

 

I haven't even looked at a Ducati clutch yet for fear of it falling apart; so I know SFA about them...............but over the last 40 years I have had numerous bike clutches apart both wet and dry to repair them; and reassembled them so they work properly....

.....so what I do know is that if the allen bolts aren't in tight, then then the likelihood of the clutch coming apart is pretty real.

And having had one come through the case of the TZ engined outfit (while I was looking at it) at full blat, for exactly that reason above, it wasn't nice.......like an anti personnel mine based on a catherine wheel.

AL

 

i normally tighten mine until you hear a bit of a 'click' from the spring, i just bought some oberon ones, ive never tried one of those stars though

 

I think the issue is the fact it's running on a slipper pressure plate. I run a 5mm spacer under the caps on my 748 with speedymoto springs. No issues and it allows me to keep the alloy caps. Worth a try. If you have no spacers, drop me a pm with your address and I'll drop you a few in the post on Monday

 

If you have a slipper clutch p/plate and fit a six in one cap plate it can lock the clutch up solid as the pockets for the
springs are deeper in the p/plate so when you nip the six allen screws up you nip the six in one cap plate to the p/plate
so it carn`t move which feels like the springs are coil bound.

brian.

 

Thats exactly why I suggested that the OP backed the allen bolts off to see if it worked then . But Cranker knows best.

 

Grabs some popcorn and sits back to watch the fight.

 

What is the difference in the old and new springs length ?

brian.

 

The plot thickens...

Ok Nelson, define "not working", what is it not doing? The lever only coming halfway back? Not engaging/disengaging? More info please :0)

 

** Just had a look at the link, you have one of the one-piece retainers, is this bottoming against your pressure plate? May be compatible with one of the standard plates but has interference issues with a fancypants CNC jobber? :wink:

 

i dont want to be aaccused of suggest stupid ideas, but just thinking... have you tried stripping it down and repacking it all again?

i had my clutch before sieze on me once when i washed it, not sure why, i stripped it and put it back together and it was all fine

 

Another stupid idea, probably.....take one plate out to see if it works then?

AL

 

This could well be your answer.
If the spring has a thicker coil , which it must have if your original springs work fine , then you have two options. One is to buy some stainless springs with a thinner coil construction and the other is to take a steel plate out and try it like that.

Beaten to it but that will probably work ok but may leave the leaver a bit harder on your fingers .

 

I would advise using only the std springs, aftermarket ones are not generally the same strength, a dealer like nelly may know of aftermarket ones that are suitable but I dont so I just use O.E ones.
You dont usually see much of the springs dependant on the clutch pressure plate and caps so it's never bothered me to see blingy stainless ones.
And if you want to back the springs off a touch by loosening the bolts just thread lock them ,you'll get no probs .

 

Sounds like the right outcome all things considered. If the worst comes to the worst and you're forced to use aftermarket that are coil bound when fitted then adjustments can be made unless they're really short. I would always fully tighten the spring cap screws (MOO).