1200 DVT Front Calliper Removal

Discussion in 'Multistrada' started by Jackstraw, Sep 16, 2017.

  1. The quick job of changing my front brake pads turned into a mission
    After taking out the two bolts I found that neither calliper would lift off the disk because the brake bango bolt couldn't clear the wheel rim.
    After a lot of fiddling and cursing I eventually drained the brake fluid and took the bango bolts out. Not ideal but it did at least enable me to get the job done
    I had a good look before I rebuilt it and it did seem that the gap for the calliper and bango bolt was physically too small for it to fit through, although I didn't want to force it in case I scratched the wheel paint.
    Has anyone else has a similar problem?
     
  2. You certainly don't need to go to those lengths :eek:. Firstly put some tape on the rim to protect it, then you need to push the pistons back into the caliper, I do this by trying to "bend" the caliper over the disc, this pushes the pistons back and allows enough rim clearance, not ideal but it works, try the caliper with only one brake pipe attached to it first.
     
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  3. Yes, and this will push fluid back into the reservoir. If the reservoir is already full, the fluid may overflow so better be ready for this.
     
  4. Yes always a good idea to remove some fluid from the reservoir with a syringe before starting :upyeah:
     
  5. Thanks
    I had taped up the rim with gaffer but I was reluctant to force it too much and the gap was bloody tight. Even putting the calliper back with the new pads in and the pistons eased right back the bango was in the way
    I'll persevere next time but it did enable me to change the brake fluid so it wasn't completely wasted
    Good tip re syringe, had removed cap but not thought about that to empty reservoir down a bit
    Cheers
     
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  6. My rims are chipped from a hamfisted c*unt at a track changing my tyres. They are a ball ache: I use a rag and get the pistons as far back without all the fluid nonsense and slide it off. It's only the one side :)
     
  7. I use one of these to get the pistons back, cheap as chips, doesn't damage or scratch anything and a good one lasts ages

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. As Kartman describes, I've managed it twice, it takes a bit of jiggling but you can do it.

    Also if you place some wood under the wheel and remove the spindle, you can get a few more mill too.
     
  9. It's a crap set up, and it's why the new pads have barely fuck all meat on them !! Anymore and you won't be able to get the calipers on and off. Still shit though !!
     
  10. I use a fat short flat head screwdriver to put pads back. Just insert it between disc and pad and gently rotate the screwdriver. Do this on both sides of disc/pad. I make sure they are pushed as far back as I can. I take cap off the reservoir also and put an old rag round it in case any spills out. I mainly take cap off to allow room for displaced fluid to return to the reservoir. None has ever spilt out, but i keep the rag there anyways. Then I undo bolts and carefully wiggle the caliper off. Process should take no more than 5-10mins for both callipers.
     
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  11. That's not true at all
     
  12. That's the exact quote that was relayed to me by an independent Ducati dealer. If the pad was any thicker on a brembo M50, the piston could not retract far enough to get off the disk, as the disk is too close to the wheel?
     
  13. Would you care to explain how removing the wheel spindle gives you any extra clearance between the brake disc and the wheel rim?
     
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  14. Maybe by spinning the bottom foot?
     
  15. There is a set distance between the centre of the wheel and the rim, to which the disk is attached, so without unbolting the disk, I'd be interested to hear how you gain millimetres by removing the spindle ?
     
  16. Pushing the wheel into the top of the mudguard gave me a few extra mm.

    Or it certainly felt that way.
     
  17. I've just re-read Wayne's post. He's right, removing the spindle makes no difference at all.

    It was the method I used when removing the wheels to have them powder coated. It's only now I realise it made no difference!
     
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  18. It may make a difference as the banjo is above the centreline - pushing the wheel up may move the banjo to more the centreline of the wheel and give a few more mm radial clearance.
     
  19. The calipers went on at the factory in exactly the way they need to come off, with the wheel in situ and the spindle in place. I simply undo the caliper bolts and rock the caliper inwards and outwards over the disc as if trying to bend the disc's edges. This forces the pads/pistons back into the caliper body enough to be able to rotate the whole caliper outwards over the disc to remove it. Yes the clearance between the banjo bolt and the wheel rim is tight but it can be done. +1 on using tape to protect the rim as well whilst you do this. Should take no more than 5 mins a side to have them off.
     
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  20. Think harder.
     
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