Hi folks, I have tried to fit an open clutch pressure plate and stainless springs from a Monster S4R on my 1098. All went well untill I tried to put the bike into gear. The bike immediately stalls. Obviously the clutch isn't releasing. But why? The only obvious difference is that the spring retaining collars from the S4R are deeper than the originals. So I put the original springs and collars back on and the same thing happens. I have now refitted the original pressure plate, springs and collars and it seems to work ok (not been out on it yet that's why I say seems ok) that is it doesn't stall when put in gear. So are the pressure plates on the S4R and 1098 different or am I missing something?
Did you have the marked (usually a dot/punch mark) spring pressure plate hole on the spring tower with the slot/cutout? There is only one place the plate will align properly. :wink:
Yep, there is a dot on the billet pressure plate and it was lined up with the post with a line on it.
The pressure plate had a new bearing fitted before I installed it. If by lifter pin you mean the piece that fits into the bearing, then yes. When I took the standard pressure plate off the push rod and lifter came with it. I swapped that over had to tap it into the new bearing/pressure plate.
When you had the set up you wanted did you have any lift on the pressure plate at all ? You could measure the distance from the face of the pressure plate to the release bearing and compare the two. brian.
Brian, I measured the face to bearing, there was a slight difference but it seemed negligible, can't remember the figures now I didn't wright it down, less than half mm if I remember correctly. The pressure plate moved when the clutch lever was pulled but I didn't measure the difference, if any!
I have just done mine and it all worked perfectly. There must be some difference in the pressure plate. Sorry not much help but have you looked at the two plates together to spot difference. Regards Steve
It might sound daft but have you tried bleeding the clutch? Might be worth a go as the pushrod has been out and if air has found its way then the symptoms are correct. Jc
The only thing that can change is the pressure plate bearing depth to drive face of the pressure plate ? have you any pics of what your fitting. brian.
i have fiddled about with re stacking plates etc and had this happen, engine stalled immediately , i had sidestand down on the hyper and it cut out , possible? oh and hello to everybody,mark
shame we've lost so many notes on this from Ducatisti - the main problem often stems from subtle differences between O.E.M. parts and aftermarket and a combination of tolerances can stack up if you're really unlucky. One issue that kept cropping up was with replacement clutch springs, particularly the stainless steel variety - the overall uncompressed height could be correct but if the wire gauge was slightly bigger or number of coils slightly more the springs could become 'coil bound' preventing enough movement of the pressure plate to achieve full disengagement.
Well thanks for all the responses, as mentioned in my initial post my second attempt was with the original springs and collars, so I assume it is something to do with the pressure plate, which brings me back to the original question, is there a difference between the S4R and 1098 pressure plates. I measured the depth from the face to the bearing and it was within 0.5 mm, as mentioned earlier I didn't record it just made a comparison. One other question is there a way of adjusting the clutch at the lever and is it possible that is what is required?
If the last remaining part that is different is the pressure plate then yes, you'd think it would have to be that part (so you even removed pressure plate from pushrod also as suggested above?). Rather than get into a comparison between pressure plates by the book, I reckon it would be quicker to just measure each critical dimension with a vernier using the depth gauge end. I'm only going by vague memory and although the pushrod/bearing relationship is relevant you also need to check the distance between the spring seat and the face that the (first outer) clutch plate bears on. A check you can make without the engine even running is to see if you can wiggle the plates around with the clutch lever pulled in - you should be able to hear them rattle even. Total movement only needs to be around 2 mm between engaged/disengaged btw.
